combatmech
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- Carrollton, Texas
Installed the spare tire carrier from my first truck.
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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1
- Thread starter DXTAC
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Finally painted the cap in CARC tan.
The rest of the truck has been tan for a while, but the black patches on the camo on the cap were eaten by 25 years of direct sunlight in the desert, right through the coating and down to bare fiberglass. Had to reseal it, and where the resin went on the texture wasn't smooth. Worse, it wouldn't sand well; It got gummy when hot. 3 cans of stone texture rustoleum followed by 3 coats of CARC gave it a nice uniform look and texture, not too rough and nice to look at.
The rest of the truck has been tan for a while, but the black patches on the camo on the cap were eaten by 25 years of direct sunlight in the desert, right through the coating and down to bare fiberglass. Had to reseal it, and where the resin went on the texture wasn't smooth. Worse, it wouldn't sand well; It got gummy when hot. 3 cans of stone texture rustoleum followed by 3 coats of CARC gave it a nice uniform look and texture, not too rough and nice to look at.
jvrotter
Member
- 116
- 4
- 18
- Location
- yucca valley, ca
Fixed a loose connection in my M1009 left turn signal circuit. Had to remove the battery and tray to get to it.
hotdogs151a2
Member
- 149
- 14
- 18
- Location
- Bullswamp,SC
Installed a tag light on both CUCV trucks.
FUN!
FUN!
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rjinga
New member
- 226
- 1
- 0
- Location
- Monroe, GA
Long story short, while getting my 2nd column switch to replace the 1st "defective" one, I discovered that you have to remove the packing brace so that the switch will go all the way down and click. Column switch works fine now.
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combatmech
Active member
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- Carrollton, Texas
replaced drivers door hinges. What a pain.... but we got it!!![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
Roadrunner 161
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- Jersey City
Installed a new piston in cylinder 7 along with new push rods and gaskets. Blasted and painted the valve covers and oil pan. Bead blasted the water crossover and did a general cleaning of the engine bay as well. I have the left side back together and am starting on the right side. It would have been easier to pull the motor than taking apart piece by piece. Hope I don't have any bolts left over. 
SPCHowe
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- Thornton, Colorado
Updated the interior a bit...just need to paint it all and get a few missing parts, and added a battery tray that will hold two group 34 optimas and clear up alot of room in the engine compartment.
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rjinga
New member
- 226
- 1
- 0
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- Monroe, GA
replaced drivers door hinges. What a pain.... but we got it!!
Installed a dash cap on the green one! Pressure washed 3 years of georgia mold inside and ouside on the white one!! Cleaned bee's nest from under dash after getting swarmed!!! Replaced fuel filter, oil change, installed new batteries, removed 3 miles of butchered wiring. Wired in manual glow plug and fired her up, runs great for not starting in 3 years!! next i need to find a loaded tailgate!!!
HoJoPo
New member
- 65
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Northern Nevada
Fuel gauge stopped working, reads all the way to the right (points straight to the passenger side). So, something (ground or sender, or possibly wiring) has gone bad. I don't want to drop the tank, may have to find the wire on it's way there and interrupt it instead (don't want to mess with the firewall connector if I don't have to.)
Put the dash back together after removing the PRND21 indicator, sanding off the rust (where the indicator wore off the paint) and lubricating it with grease. I now know what gear I'm in!
Read the operators manual, and found all four of the spot floods in the back work.
Something else I won't have to replace. I also now know that the GEN1 and GEN2 lights don't exist on the M1010, and the idiot light next to the voltmeter is a "door ajar" light for the rear doors... though the bulb is burned out / socket melted, so I suspect it wasn't working right anyway. I'll probably mount a 12V voltmeter next to the 24V, and put a momentary SPDT there, so I can momentarily check the RV batteries, or it'll normally read the 12V value with the ignition on.
Looks like there's enough space in the battery tray to hold both Group 34 Optimas, so I may modify the tray to put them both in the rear tray, and mount the RV battery in the front tray. It would make charging wiring much easier, and save space in the back.
Looked at the "broken" right front shock, the upper mount is not broken, the bushing is missing! Shocks look like they may be original, so I'm thinking I'll take it in for new shocks and maybe an alignment / steering diagnosis, because the wheel isn't quite straight. Rear shocks are yellow Monroes, so they look OK for now.
I was going to mount a DIN sized radio in the front, but the stock radio is a shaft type. I ordered a Pyle shaft type AM/FM/SD-Card MP3 player instead, and I'll use the DIN radio (with enclosure) in the back for a radio in the rear. It was only $25 for the Pyle shaft-type radio, hopefully it fits. Since the side flood lights are missing, putting the radio in the stock location seems to be a good solution. Shaft type radios are getting harder to find, though....
Other than the fuel gauge issue, the old beast started up easy as ever, and took it for a 10 mile drive (and a burger in the drive through.) As much as I'd like to justify repowering it, the 6.2 runs too good at the moment... maybe I should put a 700r4 in it instead....
Building this into an RV that will fit into a regular parking spot, yet is off-road capable... it's a lot of fun.
Put the dash back together after removing the PRND21 indicator, sanding off the rust (where the indicator wore off the paint) and lubricating it with grease. I now know what gear I'm in!
Read the operators manual, and found all four of the spot floods in the back work.
Something else I won't have to replace. I also now know that the GEN1 and GEN2 lights don't exist on the M1010, and the idiot light next to the voltmeter is a "door ajar" light for the rear doors... though the bulb is burned out / socket melted, so I suspect it wasn't working right anyway. I'll probably mount a 12V voltmeter next to the 24V, and put a momentary SPDT there, so I can momentarily check the RV batteries, or it'll normally read the 12V value with the ignition on.Looks like there's enough space in the battery tray to hold both Group 34 Optimas, so I may modify the tray to put them both in the rear tray, and mount the RV battery in the front tray. It would make charging wiring much easier, and save space in the back.
Looked at the "broken" right front shock, the upper mount is not broken, the bushing is missing! Shocks look like they may be original, so I'm thinking I'll take it in for new shocks and maybe an alignment / steering diagnosis, because the wheel isn't quite straight. Rear shocks are yellow Monroes, so they look OK for now.
I was going to mount a DIN sized radio in the front, but the stock radio is a shaft type. I ordered a Pyle shaft type AM/FM/SD-Card MP3 player instead, and I'll use the DIN radio (with enclosure) in the back for a radio in the rear. It was only $25 for the Pyle shaft-type radio, hopefully it fits. Since the side flood lights are missing, putting the radio in the stock location seems to be a good solution. Shaft type radios are getting harder to find, though....
Other than the fuel gauge issue, the old beast started up easy as ever, and took it for a 10 mile drive (and a burger in the drive through.) As much as I'd like to justify repowering it, the 6.2 runs too good at the moment... maybe I should put a 700r4 in it instead....
Building this into an RV that will fit into a regular parking spot, yet is off-road capable... it's a lot of fun.
salt6
Member
- 363
- 0
- 16
- Location
- B'ville, OK
Got it to move under it's own power today. First time since I've own it and who knows how long before that with the Arkansa Foresty Dept.
Boreal21
New member
- 106
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Central Utah
Sold it 
wrex
New member
- 182
- 9
- 0
- Location
- Laveen, Az
Installed lower window seal gaskets in driver and passenger windows. Installed "Shelf It" kit where sun visors mount (from LMC). Now have a nice shelf to put stuff that's easy to reach. Installed vent visors.
Going to probably tackle the window crank replacement on the tailgate this weekend. ugh!
Going to probably tackle the window crank replacement on the tailgate this weekend. ugh!
- 652
- 61
- 28
- Location
- Bucks County, Pa.
Got a real dually bed for the 54 mile M1028 dually!
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twa@ezdn.net
New member
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- 19
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- Location
- Chesapeake, VA
rattle can paint job, and installed a new GP card...Tim
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Nice looking truck.
Darwin T
Active member
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- Port Arthur, Texas
twa@ezdn.net that is a very nice looking rig you got there.
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