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The guy who is missing his M1010 door might care. LOLAnd the driver's side is a cucv door with the ID plate on it... and who cares if it's from an M1010
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
The guy who is missing his M1010 door might care. LOLAnd the driver's side is a cucv door with the ID plate on it... and who cares if it's from an M1010
Shhhh...The guy who is missing his M1010 door might care. LOL
.The motor on my M 10 10 Suddenly Felt Way out of balance, shaking and rattling. Purchased a new harmonic balancer. I didn’t need a puller and the bolt came out without a wrench just my fingers and about seven rotations. Any suggestions as to what I should do with this mess? I think I can clean out the slot slap a Woodruff key in there and perhaps try to weld it in place? Filling in the hole
I have a new balancer with a new bolt and thrust washer and Woodruff key. The threads are good on the crankshaft, the problem is the big chunk missing from the crankshaft where the former woodruff key Shird. The new key will fit in the slot but what do I do with the missing chunk of crankshaft?.
If there is any way possible - you don't really want to weld the balancer to the crankshaft.
I suggest scrapping the balancer you have now. Get another. Several folks have replaced one recently.
Get a tap and follow the threads in the crank. Get rid of the slivers of metal and hopefully find that you have good threads.
You need to buy:
A new timing cover seal. (Yours should be leaking badly now)
A new Harmonic Balancer (I missed that you had already bought the new balancer)
A new Harmonic Balancer Bolt
A bottle of LocTite for the bolt.
There was much discussion about the most recent balancer replacement. Might be worth reading up.
Could have been that the person before you (PO) replaced the bolt in the balancer for one reason or another. Maybe it didn't get torqued to proper specs so again read up a little on that here in the forums. Test fit your bolt before trying to refit the bolt in the crank. ALSO need to get the washer that belongs on the front of the balancer / crank. It has a slight "crown" in it, so turn it the right way.
.I have a new balancer with a new bolt and thrust washer and Woodruff key. The threads are good on the crankshaft, the problem is the big chunk missing from the crankshaft where the former woodruff key Shird. The new key will fit in the slot but what do I do with the missing chunk of crankshaft?
**this why it's paramount to change the balancer on a 6.2 diesel..I have a new balancer with a new bolt and thrust washer and Woodruff key. The threads are good on the crankshaft, the problem is the big chunk missing from the crankshaft where the former woodruff key Shird. The new key will fit in the slot but what do I do with the missing chunk of crankshaft?
What is the purpose of the crown and which way does it go in?.
If there is any way possible - you don't really want to weld the balancer to the crankshaft.
I suggest scrapping the balancer you have now. Get another. Several folks have replaced one recently.
Get a tap and follow the threads in the crank. Get rid of the slivers of metal and hopefully find that you have good threads.
You need to buy:
A new timing cover seal. (Yours should be leaking badly now)
A new Harmonic Balancer (I missed that you had already bought the new balancer)
A new Harmonic Balancer Bolt
A bottle of LocTite for the bolt.
There was much discussion about the most recent balancer replacement. Might be worth reading up.
Could have been that the person before you (PO) replaced the bolt in the balancer for one reason or another. Maybe it didn't get torqued to proper specs so again read up a little on that here in the forums. Test fit your bolt before trying to refit the bolt in the crank. ALSO need to get the washer that belongs on the front of the balancer / crank. It has a slight "crown" in it, so turn it the right way.
.What is the purpose of the crown and which way does it go in?
Good to get that heater working with the cold weather coming up. Puget Sound is a beautiful place. I spent time up there at Fort Lewis. Would dig a fox hole out in the field so deep you could barely climb out just to stay warm, so I know it gets plenty cold at times in the winter. Good job!Tackled the heater core today.
The new one was not as thick as the old one, but was making appreciable heat once the truck warmed up.
I was surprised there's so many gaps in the duct work, it sort of guides the air to where you want it, but certainly not compulsory.
Here's the old one.
View attachment 844743
.I moved my '84 M1009 home today, drove onto the rollback, and drove off. Strong engine and no rust! Dash has no cracks and the only problems are the rear window is non-functional, a few small mechanical issues I can easily tackle, and perhaps a new set of shoes since the tires are decades old and are showing cracks. Otherwise, proud to say I got this from scrounger before he passed away last month. I'm going to do some sort of tribute to him on the rig, not sure what yet, but I just want to remember him every time I start it up.
Will be hopefully ready for interstate travel, and a new paint job, before the Hagerstown show next month.
Never work any old transmission in reverse. It has no clutches just a brake band and they do not like to be worked. I had many plow trucks that went forward and shifted perfect but the reverse band was worn out from back dragging. Not my truck and you can do as you wish. But I just wanted top point that out. Use forward Drive position when ever possible. I have pulled trees in drive. Works the same. Good Luck. The last TH400 I had rebuilt with bad clutches and reverse band cost $1900. in and out of the truck. That was rebuilt completely not just throwing a few parts in a case. Old transmissions can get grumpy very quickly when put to hard work.When the Kubota ain't got enough weight to pull trees out of the ground, bring in the M1008...