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What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

dxhend2

dxhend2

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Starting to insulate the cab (aka the 94 dB EZ Bake Oven), starting with Lizard Skin sound control; ceramic insulation next week for heat, then some Dynamat hood liner. The Lizard Skin is easy to apply, and easy to clean up (water based). So far, seems to really work based on just a "tap test" (rap on an uninsulated steel panel - great steel drum effect. Rap on the Lizard Skin - very muffled thud). I might also spray the back wall of the cab and the roof inside - those are both big sound and heat radiators. Have some Kilmat for doors and other interior, as well. After getting that all done, will do another road test with the sound level meter to see how it does.
 

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Berend

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dxhend2 said:
Starting to insulate the cab (aka the 94 dB EZ Bake Oven), starting with Lizard Skin sound control; ceramic insulation next week for heat, then some Dynamat hood liner. The Lizard Skin is easy to apply, and easy to clean up (water based). So far, seems to really work based on just a "tap test" (rap on an uninsulated steel panel - great steel drum effect. Rap on the Lizard Skin - very muffled thud). I might also spray the back wall of the cab and the roof inside - those are both big sound and heat radiators. Have some Kilmat for doors and other interior, as well. After getting that all done, will do another road test with the sound level meter to see how it does.
Click to expand...
The A1 and A1R originally have some sound insulation “paint” on the back wall inside . It’s different from the A0 Cabs that are just bare metal. If you press it with your nail you feel it’s somewhat soft.


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High Water

High Water

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dxhend2 said:
Starting to insulate the cab (aka the 94 dB EZ Bake Oven), starting with Lizard Skin sound control; ceramic insulation next week for heat, then some Dynamat hood liner. The Lizard Skin is easy to apply, and easy to clean up (water based). So far, seems to really work based on just a "tap test" (rap on an uninsulated steel panel - great steel drum effect. Rap on the Lizard Skin - very muffled thud). I might also spray the back wall of the cab and the roof inside - those are both big sound and heat radiators. Have some Kilmat for doors and other interior, as well. After getting that all done, will do another road test with the sound level meter to see how it does.
Click to expand...
That looks great, I am doing the same to mine starting Tuesday. Curios, why did you tape off the rubber flaps instead of drilling the rivets out?
 
dxhend2

dxhend2

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High Water said:
That looks great, I am doing the same to mine starting Tuesday. Curios, why did you tape off the rubber flaps instead of drilling the rivets out?
Click to expand...
Sorry for delay, was offline for a bit. No particular reason, it just seemed easier to do it that way. Overall, it turned out well. Haven't had a chance to get some actual measurements, but so far sounds a lot quieter.
 
Floridianson

Floridianson

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Well since the cooler weather is coming thought since I do not use the 1088 I would let it hibernate. Charged up the batteries, toped off fuel tank to the least amount of expansion level left in the tank plus plastic bags taped off on exhaust and intake. Sleep little one sleep and dream of What Dreams May Come.
 
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Mullaney

Mullaney

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FINALLY got my passenger window repaired. It would "kinda work" sometimes. Crank it up and about 4 inches from the top it would stop. Window had popped out of the track that supports it. I have broken so many things being too aggressive over the years - so I finally asked for help. Suprman (Will) sells door parts and a lot of other stuff along with reprogramming CTIS controllers, so I asked how to get the window crank off. Couple of minutes and with some good advise, I was off solving the problem!

Turns out to be really simple. Just perfect for somebody who just goes nuts and starts yanking on it... I tugged on the plastic and it popped right off. Same thing for the door handle cover. Took more time to remove all the little screws that hold the door panel on than it took to put the window back in the track. Mine was still plenty "sticky" so I just pressed it back in place. Works Great!!

.Door Handle HowToRemove.jpg

Door Window Crank - HowToRemove.jpg
 
dxhend2

dxhend2

Active member
111
52
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Location
San Antonio, TX
dxhend2 said:
Starting to insulate the cab (aka the 94 dB EZ Bake Oven), starting with Lizard Skin sound control; ceramic insulation next week for heat, then some Dynamat hood liner. The Lizard Skin is easy to apply, and easy to clean up (water based). So far, seems to really work based on just a "tap test" (rap on an uninsulated steel panel - great steel drum effect. Rap on the Lizard Skin - very muffled thud). I might also spray the back wall of the cab and the roof inside - those are both big sound and heat radiators. Have some Kilmat for doors and other interior, as well. After getting that all done, will do another road test with the sound level meter to see how it does.
Click to expand...
Ok, finally got the Dynamat hood liner installed (thanks to a great video guide by Dave Anderson
). Got to do a decent road test, and sound levels are down to 78-81 dB (without the radiator fan running), down from the original 94 dB with no fan. Huge difference! With the radiator fan, levels got up to 86 dB. This puts it in the range of our Ford F250. Litmus test: can actually have a conversation while driving without resorting to hand signals within the cab.
Still have the Kilmat to do on the inside - will just get better. I'd highly recommend these sound and heat insulation upgrades!
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Godspeed131

Godspeed131

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Let’s bring this thread back from slumber.

I brought my new to me 97 1084a0 home this past Wednesday with help from my dad and brother. The truck is in great shape. Got it from a Police Dept in Alabama. Went down with a bed full of tools, and a 100 gal fuel tank. Did get a spare tire, cause the truck didn’t have one, from @tennmogger on the way down, again thank you for meeting up that morning. Didn’t know if I needed the fuel or not so I prepared for the worst, but worked out regardless it was cheaper back home. I checked the truck over for the 275 mile trip. Checked the drive lines for play, checked all fluids, and topped off the hub fluids. Only issues I know of right now is the ctis has the five solid lights on the ecu. The passenger door must have been replaced and it is missing all the inside hardware. It latches and has a window, and that’s about it lol. Lastly the crane is in unknown condition as they said they had never tried to operate it since they got it. Good things are it has new batteries and the tires are newer with except two with older date codes. All having 95% tread. It had two extra bed sides stored inside the storage compartment and the ladder is there as well. All fluids looked great. Was hoping to find a crane remote but no such luck. The truck was in a routine maintenance program they said, and they said when they got it and another 1078 they went up and drove them back from Kentucky. The trip went uneventful and it ran & operated great. The temps on everything stayed cool, checked everything with a ir thermometer. Only got one picture as of now
 

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