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This would be more informative if you reveal what truck you have...
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately
- Thread starter Warthog
- Start date
Thunderbirds
Active member
- 179
- 246
- 43
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Interesting. I’ve been pushing around the same thought, and for 210 miles i had to fill up 17 gallons (almost even). That brought me to 12.35 mpg on my M1123, 6.5 non turbo. But a lot of idling and starting while troubleshooting. Gonna repeat the test in the near future…
Sorry, it's a 1097A2. So 6.5 4L80E comboThis would be more informative if you reveal what truck you have...
- 465
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- Fort Lauderdale, Florida USA
That's about right.
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- Fort Lauderdale, Florida USA
I did the same but towing the sxs and a 4 wheeler in the 16' trailer, a small 4 wheeler in the bed and 4 passengers. Did around 8.5 mpg. M1123, turbo engine and 40's.
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I found an old guy locally that specializes in radiator repair, so I took the rad over to him and he re-soldered everything. Most of these side weldments were broken loose, and my theory is that it put stress on the core enough to start the leak. It was $135 fixed out the door.
He took it up to 15psi and it tests good, so back in it went, pretty much the reverse as it came out.
This caution confuses me. Those are all English words, and I know what they all mean, but I really don't understand the message they are trying to convey.
So is this saying, make sure there isn't a gap? Make sure the seam and shroud are parallel? After burping the air several times it all seems to be back to working condition. If it fails again I'll replace with an aluminum one.
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Am envious you found a radiator repairman. There are none left where I live. I went with the Champion and it's great though. Still, I've had other vehicles and will no doubt again have other vehicles that could have used a place that can repair radiators. Take everything you can to him, before he retires!
BDGR
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- Papalote, TX
"Upper edge of shroud must align with radiator tank tank seam"
Seems self explanatory to me.
Seems self explanatory to me.
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Thank you, that helps me tremendously.
M1165A1
Well-known member
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- 93
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- The High Country, CO
Round 2 of air compressor install. Installed bracket in engine compartment together with fabricated rubber rock/dirt guard to keep it clean.
It required drilling a pair of holes in the tub for the support bracket, which I was very nervous about. A small pilot hole, followed by a small diameter step drill, and it came out perfectly.
Compressor now installed, so all the easy bits are done.
Next on: 24V switched electric power from somewhere; 100 amp relay with a throw switch in the cab and a pressure switch on the tank; and then installing the tank, manifold, and air plumbing.
It required drilling a pair of holes in the tub for the support bracket, which I was very nervous about. A small pilot hole, followed by a small diameter step drill, and it came out perfectly.
Compressor now installed, so all the easy bits are done.
Next on: 24V switched electric power from somewhere; 100 amp relay with a throw switch in the cab and a pressure switch on the tank; and then installing the tank, manifold, and air plumbing.
Robbing Peter to pay Paul. Sidewall split on one truck about 100 miles from home last weekend. (Actually, it probably split about 70 miles from home and I was unknowingly driving on the run flat!). I'm working on another truck that has a nice set of Bajas on it that I was going to change out for more winter friendly tires anyhow. So the other truck now sits on jack stands, baja tires are in the trailer, and I've got some work to do Saturday.
Side note.. I did have a spare tire with me. I also had a 3' hi-lift jack. If you want to change the rear tires by jacking from the rear bumper, buy a 4' hi-lift
Side note.. I did have a spare tire with me. I also had a 3' hi-lift jack. If you want to change the rear tires by jacking from the rear bumper, buy a 4' hi-lift
Attachments
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- Puget Sound, WA
I don't know about the back, but the ring mounts on the front have a notch that seems like it was made just for the hi-lift jack.If you want to change the rear tires by jacking from the rear bumper, buy a 4' hi-lift
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Added a couple things to the front end in preparation for the siren install.
spankybear
Well-known member
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- WA
Replaced the u -joints on the front drive shaft. The TM makes this sound easy... I was cussing like a sailor trying to get the shaft out. Ended dropping the sway bar... took most of the day but all replaced.
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- North California, USA
Converted the 4 man M1123 into a 2 man cab and installed half doors. It looked easier than it’s actually been. Doors don’t fit straight, locks are in a different location, So it took a bit of adaptation!
This truck will be repainted sand in spring, so I quickly spray painted some matching camp pattern from what I remembered and could find on line:
This truck will be repainted sand in spring, so I quickly spray painted some matching camp pattern from what I remembered and could find on line:
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- North California, USA
The next step for this M1123 will be a hard roof (wondering wether I should source or build one) but now I need to figure some transmission issues - it shifts high rev as if it were full throttle all the time. This happened suddenly.
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Ah, running wire.... Gotta love it. The center table has many wire bundles running up the legs now. With the speakers installed out front, it was time to mount the siren/PA controller and run the wires. With two 100 watt outputs to two speakers, the Whelen is LOUD. Its too loud from the driver's seat, so out at the business end it's apocalypse loud.
