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Wow... fasttruck That is a really nicely written piece of information on winches with pictures to boot!Additional pics of exposed drum clutches. These are not friction clutches: it is in or out. To engage the dogs it may be necessary to move the drum by hand to align the opposing dogs. When disengaging there must be no torque on the rig or the clutch dogs will be difficult to separate. When the winch is not in use it is recommended the drum clutch be disengaged and the drum lock engaged. The next time the winch is used it will likely be desirable to free spool the cable and the winch is protected from accidental engagement.
I suggest that you do NOT use a new shear pin to run the winch in reverse to unbind your cable.
I suggest you get the engagement lever on the winch into free spool. Then pull the cable out.
If you put the pto in neutral and rotate the driveshaft by hand(pipe wrench, or bar through the yolk), you may be able to see the shear pin in the hole to get the hole aligned, then be able to drive the shearpin out. It can be very hard to see.
If that will not work, I suggest you get the driveshaft off at the winch end and clear the broken shear pin from the input shaft. Then reinstall the driveshaft , install a steel bolt and use a large pipewrench to drive the winch in reverse. Do not try to unspool it with engine power to unbind the mess you have now.
Anytime you are doing this and are trying to rotate the driveshaft, the PTO needs to be in neutral.
In order to rotate the winch drum, without using the input shaft, the winch (lever on the winch) need to de disengaged.
If the lever will not disengage, there is tension binding it from disengaging. You will need to turn the input shaft in reverse to get free play to get it disengaged. That lever slides a square set of engagement dogs. They will not release under tension.(that is why you control the winch from in the cab whenever winching).
Never ever use a steel bolt in place of the correct shear pin when operating the winch for winching.
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