What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

[twlinks]

Trying to get M1008 cammo. Used scheme for M880 TM as a start. Had not removed Civ style camper shell, so I thought what the heck, start painting it too!

View attachment 416210

Hey, that's a nice looking top now that it's all painted up...nice work!

 

[Sergeant1983]

Rhino liner front to back.

 

[Sergeant1983]

 

[Durango_USMC]

Using the advice of another member I got the rear driverside unstuck... sort of. it moves freely back and foth about an 1/8th of a turn before I see the drive shaft start moving, is that normal? or should it spin like the passengerside wheel does? I still have it up on jack stands at the moment.

Sergeant1983,

That looks like a pretty good job on the rhino lining!

 

[CARNAC]

Gotta tell ya, if you're worried that the shell makes it look "unmilitary", in the latter half of life for these many did have shells put on them by the National Guard OMS or UTES shops or the Army Reserve ECS or AMSA shops.

Looks normal to me.

It looks normal but then again, it looks too perfect. Need to break a couple of vacuum cleaner bags all over it and drive it around on a dusty road, then it will look National Guard or Army Reserve normal or active Army normal even.

 

[ryan77]

What have you done to your CUCV today/lately?

3 coats of type 2 Carc for the mold mobile today!!

 

[forest522]

Great couple of days, weather was perfect Friday (took most of the day off) and today was nice as well. Got lots of things accomplised...

0 Fixed Driver's seat lean to the outside with thick washers - sits straight now
o Fixed right rear running light, loose wires on the new LED taillight kit...
o Reset wipers to correct "home" setting down instead of straight up...more on that later
o Continue to degrease of under carriage
o Fill hole in firewall
o Replace light on volt meter
o Sound deadening and vibration control on the backside of the dash bezel - no more rattle at idle...

Hope to get some more done tomorrow in between yard work!

 

[hodgeb]

With just the passenger tub done, it's night and day.

I can talk to a passenger in normal conversational tone, no need to raise my voice/yell.

It was raining, and I heard a LOT of road noise/water from the wheel well area. I'm betting with the rear carpeted as well, it'd be pretty quiet.

How far forward in the passenger tub did you put the dampening - to the base of the firewall panel, or all the way up (taking the dash off to do so)? I figure I've got to redo all the wiring behind the dash, might as well put the insulation in at the same time if it'll do any good...

 

[shaker]

I had some oil coming out of the CDR valve on my M1009 I was told it needed to be changed. I changed the CDR valve with a brand new one and I checked again and I see some oil coming out the vent hose hole in the top of my intake. The truck cranks and runs perfect does not smoke while driving it. I just want to know if this is alright? My M1009 only has 37,000 miles and change. I change oil every 3,000 miles with Rotella 15-40. This is my first diesel truck I do not think I have any engine troubles. Please someone give me some insight!

 

[beltfedonly]

Make sure all the hoses are connected to the stock air cleaner.

 

[unaffiliated]

This weekend I decided to get back on the CUCV project I started a while back.

The problem started about a year ago when my driveline vibration got drastically worse all of a sudden one day. Come to find out, the bolts holding the transmission to the engine had fallen out. I limped it to Lowes and got 6 new bolts, only to find out 3 of the bolts had sheared off in the block when the others loosened up and fell out. I put 3 bolts in and was on the road for a while till the flywheel started making lots of noise. I knew the 3 bolts holding everything together were under a lot of stress so I parked it.

Fast forward about 6 months or so. I decided to pull the engine because I really didn't want to lay under the truck to pull the trans and Xfer case then drill out bolts laying on my back. Plus, the rear main was leaking and I had another bolt broken off where the starter support bracket bolts to the engine. That bolt was very difficult to get to from underneath, already tried that when I had it on a lift. Just couldn't get a good angle on it. Anyway, I disconnected most of the stuff to pull the engine but got busy with work and other stuff and the truck was on the back burner again.

Fast forward another couple months. I finally decided that the truck needed to be on the road and with the warm weather I just jumped right in there. I didn't have help to remove the hood, so I took the wipers and cowling off, disconnected the hood spring hinges and raised the hood up all the way to the windshield. I learned that trick on Mercedes 450SL's, works great. I only forgot to disconnect 2 things but I noticed them before any damage was done. Engine came out pretty smoothly, but it is heavy and the factory lifting brackets were tweaking but held up. That was yesterdays portion.

Today I started on the broken bolts. I borrowed some reverse cut drill bits from another member and started with a small bit on each bolt then a larger bit. All three broken pieces spun right out when the bit got a good bite. Wow, was I lucky. Now on to the exhaust pipe flange stud that broke while taking things apart. I sprayed it down with penetrating oil and went inside to eat lunch. When I came back out, I grabbed it tightly with vise-grips and the stud came right out. Dang man, I must be living right. Not so fast, on to the last broken bolt for the starter support bracket. When I originally tried to fix it, a friend of mine broke an easy out off in the hole he drilled in the broken bolt. I knew I had to grind that out so I had bought some die grinder carbide burs that also had cutting burs on the end, not just the sides like most you see. I searched long and hard for them a while back and paid dearly for them too. I started with the 1/4in diameter and made short order of what was left of the bolt and the broken easy out. I then used the larger bur and carefully made a nice straight hole as far in as I could. I then got a 12mm 1.75 metric tap and tapped new threads in the hole. The original bolt was no where near that big but I had to go larger because the hole got so buggered up. The hole is only about a 1/2in deep so I had to make a short bolt. I ran a die onto the bolt, cut it off to the right length then used the die to clean the threads up. I enlarged the hole in the support bracket and BAM....DONE. All of these repairs happened with no cussing, no thrown tools, no busted knuckles, sweet, what a lucky day.

Then to top the Saint Patrick's Day off, I found 2 four leaf clovers in just a matter of a couple minutes looking. How cool is that.

Now, next weekends project is the rear main seal, new harmonic balancer (just because they are prone to problems), new engine mounts and a new flywheel. The flywheel/torque converter mounting holes got elongated due to the transmission moving all over the place. All in all, it was a good weekend.

 

[unaffiliated]

I know, the post is useless with out pictures. Here we go.

 

[unaffiliated]

Here's a few more.

 

[CARNAC]

And now for your next trick (drumroll please).

Impressive. I think I would have bumbled and fumbled and in the end, hooked it to a towbar and taken to TWright. I barely pass CUCV 102. Wish I were a college level CUCV mechanic.

 

[Warthog]

Here's a few more.

Great job!!!

While you engine is out you may want to change the freeze plug behind the motor mounts. Or all of them. Soooo much easier with the engine out.

 

[forest522]

Outstanding! Give yourself some due credit, the four leaf clovers may be lucky...but your work was all skill brother! Great job!!

 

[unaffiliated]

Great job!!!

While you engine is out you may want to change the freeze plug behind the motor mounts. Or all of them. Soooo much easier with the engine out.

I was hoping no one was gonna tell me about all the pile on stuff. I have to replace the flywheel because of the bolt holes, found one at Saturn Surplus for $35 plus shipping. I have to do the rear main, its slinging oil all over and that is only about $40 bucks. I want to do the engine mounts because they are original and they are cheep, about $10 each. I want to replace the harmonic balancer because everyone says they break and while I have the engine out, it is a HECK of a lot easier. I would like to go ahead and install a 700R4 that I am currently gathering parts for but dang, all this starts adding up. I am gonna install a block heater that I got from a SS Member a while back. Freeze plugs are cheap, so I guess I may as well. Crap-O-Matic, there goes the budget. Thanks for the heads up though. It would be just a pisser if one started leaking a month down the road.

 

[unaffiliated]

Outstanding! Give yourself some due credit, the four leaf clovers may be lucky...but your work was all skill brother! Great job!!

Thanks man. I guess I have learned a thing or two working on vehicles for 35 years. I'm just not used to Chevy's, my time in the trenches has all been Mercedes except for my own crap.

 

[unaffiliated]

P.S. I ordered the Holy Grail of 700R4 swap parts off fleabay Saturday. The illusive TV Bracket. I had been watching it for a week or so at $95.00, the price had been lowered to $90.00, but in the process of the buy it now, apparently the seller lowered the price again to $85.00 right at the perfect time. Plus I had a 10% off coupon through fleabay so that took another $8.50 off. Sure beats scouring junk yards for months on end. I would have spent more than that on fuel going to all the Pull-A-Part locations in Atlanta. I also found a reproduction one cheaper but I wont mention where. It looked kind of flemsy.

 

[allenhillview]

I was hoping no one was gonna tell me about all the pile on stuff. I have to replace the flywheel because of the bolt holes, found one at Saturn Surplus for $35 plus shipping. I have to do the rear main, its slinging oil all over and that is only about $40 bucks. I want to do the engine mounts because they are original and they are cheep, about $10 each. I want to replace the harmonic balancer because everyone says they break and while I have the engine out, it is a HECK of a lot easier. I would like to go ahead and install a 700R4 that I am currently gathering parts for but dang, all this starts adding up. I am gonna install a block heater that I got from a SS Member a while back. Freeze plugs are cheap, so I guess I may as well. Crap-O-Matic, there goes the budget. Thanks for the heads up though. It would be just a pisser if one started leaking a month down the road.

You may find those orginal motor mounts are thicker metel , consider just new inserts, but you decide?