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Walked past my M38A1 sitting with its body half apart under the pines.. Heard myself say the motor was probably stuck by now... Heard my other self say it was the same thing I had said the decade before ![Cautious :cautious: :cautious:](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Thanks Maverick. I have a good friend with a pointless conversion on his 56 Studebaker Champion. Works good. I had never heard of the pointless conversion for the M38A1. It came with a new distributor cap and rotor, and the coil looks new as well. The shaft in my current distributor wiggles around a bit so I may pull it out and go with the pointless distributor.that pointless system is NICE. It's an upgrade I'm going to do on mine once I get it running right. They are dead reliable from all the reviews I see online.
yes sir, those are the sections of insulation. They are sandwiched between the building framing and the outer skin. I wanted some kind of insulation to help keep out some heat in the summer and keep in heat in the winter.That shop is looking real sharp, for sure, Maverick1701!
What are the wall panels (with the loose film) shown on that inside shot of the shop, are those insulated panels of some kind?
.yes sir, those are the sections of insulation. They are sandwiched between the building framing and the outer skin. I wanted some kind of insulation to help keep out some heat in the summer and keep in heat in the winter.
Over the weekend the family went to a local car show here in Lubbock, TX. I spotted a beautifully restored half-track, and a few vintage willys jeeps (blue 1946, red 1947 CJ2a). The red jeep still had a working rear PTO setup. However, the front pto winch was just bolted to the front bumper with no PTO hook-ups. It wasn't functional, strictly for looks. I was disappointed as I have the same winch sitting in my shop and wanted to see how he had it mounted (had if been mounted in a way it could have worked)
I also scored a nice radio control unit from an antique store....paid $30.
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.Been working on refreshing the wiring on the C over the last few days. It was a rats nest of hacked wires, crumbling insulation and just outright broken wires. So, I finally ordered some wire and Packard connectors (I know, not the correct style) to start the process.
A PO had put in a pull style light switch, took that out, had to get a new light switch since the current one was not working, as was the main power switch. Made a jumper to see if I even had power to the lighting circuits, and then found out there wasn't even a switch on the master cylinder for the brakes! View attachment 875410
I started in the engine bay and ripped out a bunch of the old wiring after identifying which line was which (that's called thinking ahead lol) and grafting new wire onto the headlight connectors and b/o lights. Ran the length, put new Packards on and taped everything up once they were all cleaned up. View attachment 875411View attachment 875412View attachment 875413View attachment 875414View attachment 875415
I used the pretty, expandable mesh loom on the 53, it almost looks like old fabric loom lol and I like it better than tape..
Yeah... Some "wire loom" will make your wiring job appear a lot more factory than tape and you will say a lot less bad words if you ever need to work on the wiring in the future.
SummitRacing.com is a good source to buy the cloth wire loom.
Wow, JEB, that paint job lools great.Here is a shot of my Jeep with the first coat of Strata Blue applied.
Don't worry, in person the paint is much darker than seen here under florescent lights.
With hardner added to the paint, it will be glossy, but I don't see that as that critical on an Air Force vehicle.View attachment 884346
strata blue jeeps are just *chefs kiss* perfect!Here is a shot of my Jeep with the first coat of Strata Blue applied.
Don't worry, in person the paint is much darker than seen here under florescent lights.
With hardner added to the paint, it will be glossy, but I don't see that as that critical on an Air Force vehicle.View attachment 884346
Me, I'd probably do some very fine finessing with a torch and cut the nuts off. And with the amount of heat that would be put through the bolts at that point may have taken some of the hardness away. And use a fresh Cobalt drill bit. Slow and a lot of cutting oil/ lube.
Old wood handled carpenter's hammer! Yeah, I got one just like it, was my father's, along with other yesteryear things. I am going on 80 yrs old.
Re bolt residue. Need to remove temper so it can be drilled. Heat it to orange with your torch and hold for a bit. If that bracket wasn't there, I would go to yellow, but don't want to damage bracket. Let it cool as slowly as possible. I slowly reduce torch flame and gradually move it away. You will be able to drill it out with a sharp cobalt bit, and cutting oil. Go slow.
Re the nut. That is not the way we did stuff. Not even a washer! See if other members can tell/ show you the way factory mounted winch.
ALUMINUM! ! I doubt you can get bolt remains hot enough without damaging aluminum. Aluminum is funny. You heat it, and it looks fine, then in a blink of an eye it is liquid.Thanks for the tips, y'all. I can't go too crazy with the heat since the frame is aluminum
I'm going to keep working it with heat cycles in hopes it I can get it soft enough to drill.....just need to grab some cobalt drill bits now.