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The parts you have may have a part # stamped or inked in it. The parts TM will be your best friend in identifying the correct part(s) you need. A crucial piece of info when looking up parts in the TM is know your UOC (usable on code). That code delineates which specific model some parts go to.
Take a close look at the cannon plugs on the light switch and turn signal arm. Make sure no sockets or pins on either the male or female connections are bent or pushed back inside the connector. I’ve also see lighting circuit gremlins pop up due to bare wires and shirts at the trailer receptacle.
I do believe that the light housing mounting bolt holes are grounds to the light separation plates inside the housing. Those bolt holes must be clean and the wire mounting points on the plates must be corrosion free. Same for the ground wire at the light housing as well as all other grounding...
My immediate thought is that someone ran a “new wire@ because they couldn’t figure out the problem with the original circuit. Or, they found an unused hot wire (12 or 24 volts) and tapped in to it to power up something. Have you checked it with a voltmeter?
I have been posting under the 1097 specific thread. I’ve only been hitting it in small amounts. It’s a GP purchase and was not a runner when I bought it. Had to put a starter on, dual voltage regulator, replaced the belts, new thermostat, batteries, need 2 battery cables, new engine oil pan...
I have put a vehicle in N prior to stopping but just prior to stopping and going nearly zero miles an hour. I’ve also done it on a flat stretch with no traffic - but as stated it might be problematic to take a gear if the tranny & drive train are at different speeds.
I’m curious if you hear that noise when the clutch is in or out - or both. Noises are funny because they can originate in one place but and through resonation it sounds like it’s coming from a different place. Does the engine spool right up or is there a lag or hesitation? Is there lag or...
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