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Take the little gear reducer box off of the speedometer cable at the transfer case and connect the cable directly to the transfer case. All of the transfer cases have the correct speedometer gear for the 4.56 geared 1008 with the box converting it for the 1009. It won't be 100% accurate because...

The color wire that those circuits have in common is the pink wire with the black tracer that feeds 12V ignition on power to most circuits. The problem with that theory is that that circuit also turns on the Gen2 light by powering the Gen2 relay. If that light comes on with the key on engine...

If the voltmeter arced to the metal dash, it's probably blown now. Happened to mine too although it blew the fuse then worked for an hour before dying completely. Check for 24V on the wires to the gauge with the key on. If there's voltage there, the gauge is bad, if there's not, the Bosch relay...

The relay under the dash is only to isolate the 12V truck power from the 24V solenoid. In a 12V conversion it isn't needed so you can connect the purple and purple/white wires together to eliminate the relay and a potential point of failure in the system. Did you replace the glow plug relay...

I suggested that a guy with a CUCV join to discuss his wiring problems and he just told me that the forum is not accepting new members. Is this correct or is he doing something wrong? Thanks, Joe

Wow, that's quite the horse tradin' deal... LOL Later, Joe

Too bad you're not going through Reno... I have a 1031 that needs to be picked up and hauled to CO.

LOL, yea, pumping cold air in while the heat is on is counterproductive... rofl Glad you fixed it though... Later, Joe

Well, I worked on it a little more today and am now getting a weak little "psst" every time I turn the wheel but still no noticeable power assist. I'll have to dig up some tool oil to dump into the inlet to see if that helps. I'm just happy that it's making progress... LOL Later, Joe

Heh, yea... non repairable by human hands means you need tools. I believe that was one of the evolutionary advancements that we all benefited from. Anyway, if it's dead, where is a good source for a replacement? Thanks, Joe

I don't have a good gauge to check the exact pressure at the drag link, but it sounded like there was good pressure at the fitting. My assumption is that there is something stuck from sitting so long and if I could find a manual/diagram for pulling the drag link apart to clean it that would...

Haven't disconnected the cylinder yet, will try it tomorrow. No issues steering lock to lock, it just has no assist at all. Thanks, Joe

I'm working on Coondog's M35A3 and the Air-O-Matic isn't working at all. No air release from the system when you turn the wheel back and forth. The valve on the firewall is on, and there is air reaching the drag link. The troubleshooting in the TM isn't very helpful so does anyone have any...

Dude that's so cool... What do you expect them to run cost wise? Later, Joe

I'm heading back from Wichita to Colorado Springs empty next weekend (Oct 9th). Anyone have anything they need moved west in the KS/OK/NE area? Thanks, Joe

I might be passing through that way in two weeks to go to a funeral in NY. Details are still pending so I don't have a firm date yet but I could use some extra cash for fuel. Drop me a PM if you're interested in working something out. Later, Joe

Is your fire department participating in the FEPP program? If so, you should be able to request the glow plug card through the Federal supply system. It is NSN 5995-01-199-1579 Fire and Aviation Management Later, Joe

Hey, glad to help out. I'm glad it was a quick and easy pickup. Two successful deuce pickups in two days... Later, Joe

Type F transmission fluid is for FORD vehicles (Hence Type F for FORD), it is not designed or formulated to work with GM (DEXRON) vehicles. The type F fluid does not have the friction modifiers that the Dexron fluid does because the friction materials used in the Ford transmissions was paper...

Dude, you should have called me when you ran into trouble.... I see how it is... :-P Anyway, as Bobert said, did the op-rod fall out when you pulled the mod? Can you put the old one back in so you can see if it's the modulator or something else? Give me a call when you get a chance. Later, Joe