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Which axle are you talking about? Dana 60 is so easy you probably won't even need a diagram of your a mechanic guy. All you need is a Dana 60 spindle nut socket, which any auto parts store will have.
I've thought about doing a turbo. A good friend of mine is a diesel technician, and says whatever I do...run a stud girdle and get good quality head gaskets to replace the 20+ year old ones.
Same thing happened to me, was pulling a winch line in when I started to hear it...took a few people to finally figure out what the noise was. Had to use a pulley puller to move the pulley far enough to fit a wrench in to tighten it back down.
Hes confusing you by saying the rear output... there is a seal where the rear driveshaft goes into the transfer case, yeah...but hes talking about the transfer case adapter between the tranny and t-case. Mine is just RTV, but paper seals are available like the above poster said.
You found a half cup of metal shavings, and several big pieces of junk, filled it up and decided to see it would magically fix itself? :cookoo: Time for a new differential, since the pieces you found are whats supposed to be holding it together.
Notice the key words 'long term exposure'. Wear a mask and take a shower afterwords...no different than sanding any other paint off a vehicle. You aren't going to die :roll: Spray it down with water and sand it, you won't get as much 'death dust'. Motor oil causes skin cancer, I don't see people...
When our daughter was born I traded my 1994 GMC Sierra GT for a 2003 Kia Spectra (Both vehicles were on reconstructed titles) Went from 14mpg on a good day to 28mpg, and the only thing 'reconstructed' on the Kia was the trunk. It doesn't match, but I don't care. Kia's are decent cars.
I will also point out you can't fully flush the block without pulling a plug on the bottom, water will just run right over the sediment on the bottom. Gotta stick a thin punch in there and rattle it around to break it up.
I put the hub on the floor and use a long socket extension to remove everything. Goes back in the same way it comes out, then I tighten down the spindle nut as far as it will go to suck everything back into place. Back off the spindle nut, then torque to proper specs.