Search results

Can't wait to learn how it turns out. Never had the luxury of a dyno break in.

Even less than that scrubs the heck out of the tires in 4wd. If nothing else, much shorter tire life.

Yeah, that's the right way. No patch jobs. I had a right front let go on a race car in a left turn. Hard time sorta getting thru turn. Almost totally lost it & wrecked. What rims you getting?

Be careful. I am friends with people at a tire store. See cracked sidewalls that suddenly let go at one of the cracks.

Round here, they wouldn't last long - someone would bend them to the ground.

Are you planning to paint it military colors?

I wish you the very best of luck! Half the time, when I did not have enough dough, and tried to save a few bucks by re-using "used but good" parts, I wound up doing the job over again in about year or so.

Should have been changed before starting trip. If crud gets by, Could shorten life of IP.

Runs better that way:drool:

"Make another complete inspection after cleaning the piston. Check all parts for any defects that could require replacement of the piston. Give particular attention to the ring grooves, especially if the pistons have been in service for a long period of time. A certain amount of enlargement of...

Don't get so nervous! If you use new, high quality rod bolts and assemble & torque correctly, highly unlikely anything will happen at 2,800. I would not go much beyond that, tho. If you are concerned, You don't HAVE to hit 2.800. I think 2,600 will give a good break in.

I do not like them! Do not like short skirt. Whenever we changed pistons on engines (gasoline, 5000+ RPM), we had crank rebalanced. I know, 2800 RPM is not that fast, but there still is a change in balance.

Agree! Also consider Deere break in oil. As I said before, I hate working on engines in vehicle, so I would spend the extra bucks for a name brand, proven break in oil from a major diesel equipment manufacturer.

If you have experience, you can feel .020. I'd be prying a bit with a long screwdriver or rod to put a little pressure on them. I did not have fancy equipment. I found vibrations by first bringing engine up to highway speed in neutral. If no vibration, then the engine, flywheel, damper pulley...

When I helped prepare weekend racer cars, we were required to install driveshaft safety straps to prevent that. Basically, they were a steel loop that would catch broken shaft before it hit the ground or went wild and tore thru the floor. Shaft would just buzz around in the loop as car came to a...

Well, I hate working on engines in vehicle, so I would go route 2 with clean diesel and Deere break in oil. If nothing is cracked, I would not expect to be in that engine again. You have a LOT more patience than I have ----- the thought of a 3rd teardown and rebuild would make me consider...

I imagine some tire smoke and roughed up front tires. On Fords, that takes out the wheel alignment rite quick.

Agree - see post 250.

This is a different situation. After what appears to be a proper rebuild, using appropriate diesel rated oil( Rotella 15-40), OP found poor compression with 90% leak down and glazed cylinders after 2000 miles. He plans to use a ball hone to refurbish the glazed cylinders, install new rings...

Wildchild, I am very careful with what I put in or feed my engines. If you choose to go that route, the John Deere diesel break in oil looks interesting. Says made for new and old tractors, to help rings seat without wearing cams or other parts. I like something made specifically for that by a...