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As far as I know, it was not produced (at least for US use). It basically would have been a fixed-side bodied M925A1. I think the military realized the usefulness of drop-sides and ordered all M923 & M925 drop-side trucks. In fact, the most recent TM's don't even reference the M924 or M926 on...

Mainly the overload springs in the rear of the M1028 (higher GVW), as well as a Trac-lok posi up front versus the M1008 open front axle.

Take your GL link out and only post the photos...

Is caging that chamber really going to help, if in fact the shoes are mis-adjusted and dragging? If it was an air problem to that chamber, I could see it, but wouldn't rotating the adjusters be the only way to go if they're not releasing regularly? To adjust the shoes with the adjusters...

If HAWKMAN can't find any more, I'll have two available. HAWKMAN, If you have any extra complete front shackle mounts I'll take a pair as well.

How about a passenger vent window assembly? Any M1009 tailgate crank handle assemblies?

Welcome aboard.

Or buy an NOS complete rear from Coleman's or Saturn or somebody...

If you're talking about the trans dipstick, it was answered in your other thread. The very last post.. ;) http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/32438-m35a3-runs-but-still-need-parts-help.html

As long as you don't get pulled over by a cop who is ex-military and had any interest in trucks while he was in the service. I know of at least two Maryland troopers who could bust you on a "1970" 900 series any day of the week... Any THAT would not be pretty.

Then again, $109 for all of that is a DEAL!!!

I got the bushing and spring kit from them. You probably don't need anything but those to cure the death wobble...

Yeah, it's kind of BS that they extended the sale, but it's apparently the magnitude of the extension bothering everyone. I've watched plenty of items go for an hour or more after the "close time" on a regular sale. It's normal behavior on GL. Bidding at the last minute does not matter on GL...

I would bring the pry bar to get it out of the pinion, but I would probably just tie it up out of the way. Bring some masking tape and tape the caps of the rear u-joint so you don't lose them and then use some #12 copper wire (or equivalent) and tie through the yoke (wrap it around between yoke...

Either should work, but definitely take a wrench. If you rotate the shaft, you can usually get on them at some point underneath with a socket and extension, but take the wrench just in case.

Yup.

You'll probably have to "help" it by bunching the canvas manually. I'll see if I can find a pic of one cinched up tight.

Looks good, Hans! I can't wait to see it after paint! You might want to tighten the ropes up a bit to cinch those corners in before you go driving down the road too fast.;-)

Stock. And technically, a bobbed deuce isn't really a "deuce" anymore.:roll:

You've got a whistler. Don't you hear it spool up as you push the pedal down?? When driving on a level road in 4th or 5th, press the accelerator down and listen to the turbo change sounds. Hardly any RPM increase = lots of turbo speed increase. If you had a turbo boost gauge, you'd see it move...