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the 1/4" ID washers in the item#67526 set from Harbor Freight are a shade over 1/2" OD and .038" thick. In a pinch you could bolt some of those together and file the OD down in a drill press or turn them in a lathe.

Hunker down and be safe! Mine came with the adapter and hose but no pickup tube. The bottom drum/can side is threaded 1/4" NPT. I just threaded a piece of 1/2" OD aluminum tube for a pickup. For building one from scratch a 2" NPT thread will screw into the large bung hole of a metal 55 gallon...

Looking GOOD!

I think that 3/8" is the hose barb diameter, not the pipe thread size. The threads are probably 1/4" or 1/8" NPT like most of these type pumps I've seen. Also the Airtex E8135 is a straight through pump that will most likely result in the need to trim or remove the perforated shield above it...

Today happened to be my schedule load test day so I performed a fuel pressure and volume test on the Airtex E1074 installed on my unit. Fuel test 08/13/2017 Dead head pressure was 6 PSI Volume was ¼ gal in 60 seconds = 32 ounces per min = 15 GPH

Finally located the test procedure in the TM. Seems they called it a transfer pump in that manual instead of primary fuel pump. It doesn't give a pressure specification but says it should have a minimum flow of 25 ounces in 1 minute. that equates to 11.7 GPH. My genset doesn't have any problems...

So I'm reading through all this info on the primary fuel pump and I look in the technical manual I downloaded. It has paragraphs on the auxiliary pump and nary a thing on the primary pump or it's specs. Have some of you got manuals with actual specification requirements for the primary pump? I...

The parts manual shows both fittings are pipe to tube and the Spectra pump indicates the fittings are 3/8 so I bet it's got 3/8 NPT threads for hose barbs. The stock fittings may screw right into it. I found the pump listed at Autozone as well as online so if you have an Autozone local you could...

I haven't compared to the one on mine but do you think the Spectra SP1174 pump would work?

I would adjust to 240 between the lugs and then check from each line under load to make sure they both stay at 120. When I first got mine it was dropping voltage on L1 under load. I had to clean and recrimp connectors and exercise the switches and finally got it to maintain a steady voltage...

Connect a known good volt meter between L1 and L3 to see what the voltage really is. These gauges are known to be inaccurate at times.

Are you reading/adjusting the voltage with the unit gauge or a known good voltmeter at the output legs?

I ended up having to scribe everything and take the plate off the sender then I fished the sending unit out of the filler neck. After I got it out I tried to assemble and insert it back in through the tank hole and it would not go no way no how. I took it back apart and fished it back in through...

Trying to weasel mine out the hole right now. It quit working after I pumped the tank dry to rotate the fuel. I have performed the gauge check and confirmed the gauge is okay. I have checked the wires and they are okay so problem is in the sending unit. By checking the wires I mean one has...

What's a roach clip? :naner:

You know to toggle the interrupt switch up after starting right? If it doesn't measure 240 between L1 and L3 after that try exercising the selector switches as has been said.

What do you have the AM/VM switch on the front panel and AC Voltage Reconnection Switch Located Behind Control Panel set at? Download and read the manual.

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive 7 function Clamp-On Digital Multimeter for $16.99 that has a peak hold function. They also have two others that do not have the peak hold function so make sure and get the 7 function model if you go that route. The one I bought read about 4 amps low compared...

That meter ain't worth the time it takes to look at it. Use a good amp meter to determine actual load. My 803 would remain running with the load meter pegged.

Not the same part number but here is one on ebay for a 003 that might work.