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Or I have the wrong alternators in mine. They exceed the battery at rest voltage by quite a bit, much like all the other alternators in other vehicles I have. That's not based on my opinion, by the way, but knowledge of basic electrics and experience.

With the charging system working correctly, yes, that's low.

I tend to buy from whoever has the stuff for a good price. Which can be numerous places, including eBay.

Where is it? What does it look like? There's something leaking a bit in that general area on mine, but I haven't tried finding the source.

I left the backhoe in place and folded up when messing with my outrigger valve. Not many hoses in the way, really. Then again, I never removed the valve itself, just the plug at the bottom, so I could pull the guts out and clean things up. Glad you got yours fixed, too. Having the outrigger not...

Welcome, ODB. I think you're doing the right thing reading through this thread. There's lots of good info in it (and then there are my posts, but hey, no thread is perfect).

You may want to clean off the hub surface that the spacers rest against. And that doesn't look like much thread engagement on the bolts holding it on. Either way, don't forget to retorque the spacers after a little driving.

Wouldn't the pressure relief be on the actual valve, behind the cab?

Adjusting the linkages is easy, once the cover is out of the way. I cut a slot in mine to get it past that large bracket without having to take everything apart. For the stabilizers, I fixed my inoperative one (left side) by pulling the plug at the bottom off and removing what turned out to be...

I thought they're supposed to be 20 feet. Made a pair of 20' extension hoses since what's on the reel isn't always quite enough.

Most likely the pump didn't fail, but what you heard was the belt squealing. And the front hydraulics are a little weak on a good day.

I may have missed it, but why is the pump suspected to be bad in the first place? A slipping belt won't kill it, just make it not work right. Not the greatest comparison, but I wouldn't be concerned with wheel bearings or axle seals if getting a flat tire. I'd just fix the tire.

Wouldn't it be worth trying to put a correct belt on the pump you already have?

If you're hell bent on not using the stock pump, you could run a 12-Volt pump instead. Off of one battery, of course. But don't you think that these stock pumps can take a little heat? After all, some SEEs were deployed and used in much hotter weather than even Phoenix has to offer this week. I...

I'd leave the simple stock setup alone, just fix whatever minor things might need to be. Like the belt. If doing an electric over hydraulic conversion it's easy enough to buy a unit with the correct specs. And dry rot on the fittings are a new concept to me, if those are indeed what's rotted...

Wheels turning in the opposite direction is proof that the diff is not locked.

Running basically stock size Swampers on one, so no widening required. Did add an extra two inches for the wider Pit Bull tires, but that was also because I wanted the wider track, not just lower contact pressure.

Not being in the least concerned about mileage or handling, I really like the bias ply tires I use.

I'd say there's a good chance you will be lucky. My first SEE sprung a major leak on one not long after I got it. Got it fixed and left the other one alone. That was six or seven years ago.

So is this a supposedly running and fully functional SEE, or close to it? What the hell, I'm probably far from the ideal person for this, but PM me your phone number and I'll do my best to prep you for the inspection. If the timing works out, I may be willing to try helping while you're...