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The wastegate requires pressure to open and with computer control, you generally make the wastegate actuator about 1/3 of the max boost that you plan to run. That way when you do open the wastegate it responds very quickly, and if there's a problem you can drop the boost to "wastegate" level...

I'll send you a PM. You need manuals for that truck also.

The 3126 and C7 transducers always fail due to age. All of mine went out in the first year of me daily driving my 2008. Replace the boost pressure, atmospheric pressure, and oil pressure transducers. The boost pressure transducer in particular puts the ECM in limp mode. It won't add fuel because...

The FMTV disconnect switches that I've worked with do cut both the 12v and the 24v positive leads.

That looks to my eye like they ran the edge of the gear against the hobbing cutter with the spindle speed turned up to chamfer it. I don't see how you get a radial pattern on a spinning spur gear inside that PTO. Unless there's some mechanism I'm not envisioning at work here. It's looks too...

Well in that unenviable position, you will have to go full tilt. And there's plenty of other situations that require this as well. But for daily/weekly/monthly PMCS and jobs that allow it's use it can be very useful.

This is the correct FMTV cab support tool for working with the cab up, but not fully forward - in cases where you don't really want to unload everything and prepare for full forward cab tilt. This is part of the FMTV special tools kit that every Army unit with FMTV's is supposed to have at least...

Yeah on further inspection it is the welded cross member that is in the way. Will probably just cut it out and bolt in a replacement if I decide to go in there.

Your confusing electrical readings (5v, dropping to 4.5v) after disconnecting the 12v are probably capacitors discharging from electronics. Had you waiting a bit I bet it would have dropped to zero. Things like the voltage regulator on the alternator likely have internal capacitors that don't...

"O-Ring Boss". It's a straight thread fitting with an o-ring seal at the base of the male threads and a chamfer for the o-ring at the start of the female threads.

It's threaded into the cylinder head. There's an ORB fitting that you remove to install the transducer.

IDK - those big pieces in the pan don't strike me as break in materials. Break in materials might give the oil a little swirl in the right light. They usually can barely be seen with the naked eye if at all, and you definitely can't feel them. Just my opinion from a lifetime in the shop.

I had one customer that bought an Amazon one and his truck wouldn't even drive after installing it. Had to get one from CAT. Beware anything aftermarket. I have not noticed any difference in performance. But it's there for a reason I assume. Installing the sensor will clear the code. You...

The 275 HP 3126b does not have the barometric sensor. The 330 HP flash wants it but doesn't complain with a check engine light. The fault codes is only there if you scan the codes. Barometric Sensor part number for the 3126b is 194-6722 You need to replace the boost pressure transducer also...

How did the alternator burn up? That can be the result of batteries being hooked up wrong in the absence of the LBCD (polarity protection device). Here's the diagrams: https://archive.org/details/fmtv-schematics-a-0-a-1-r

I was referring to the single wheel dumping to 50 psi with his manual setup. That's a partial blockage between the right front wheel valve and the QRV. It's not likely to be the diaphragm in the wheel valve since he already changed that. You can test this easily. Tell the system to inflate to...

C7 trucks don't have it. It was only used on the 3126B and later deleted. I've only a seen a few trucks that still had them actually connected. Most that have them they are just bolted to their bracket by the ECM and disconnected. Isn't your other truck an older A1? The engine switchover was...

Yup. 98% of the problems with these trucks are batteries and battery/ground connections. I honestly can count on one hand the number of trucks I've seen "not start" that wasn't one of those or a *slightly* deeper wiring problem like the 3126b deprecated EMI/RFI box and it's MWO jumper delete...

I disagree. A *restriction* (as opposed to a complete blockage - so a partial blockage) will not allow the wheel valve to close above the pressure at which the line is unable to vent to zero *as fast* as the wheel can refill the line (to 5 psi differential). At 50 psi the flow rate is high...

You can remove the wheel valve and move the shrader to the valve stem itself and just use it like a normal tire. What is happening is not a leak - actually it's probably the opposite of a leak. You likely have a partial blockage between the wheel valve and the dump valve on the wheel that will...