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I'll PM you my PayPal info, if you insist.

Strangely enough, when I have screwed up repairs and/or fixes, for some reason I thought it was my fault that I screwed up, not the vehicle's.

According to always knowledgeable choprboy, the correct part number is 360-081-034-002C. They're on eBay for $88 plus $6 shipping, but as peakbagger points out above, a little shopping abroad could likely result in better prices yet. If nothing else, anything in UK has 20% VAT added, which...

My mistake, I thought you had the stock 10-bolt axles. Either way, Dana 60s, 70s and 80s can be had with much taller gears than 4.10s. There's a small outfit that sells new and reman NV4500s, frequently on sale, which I can dig up the name of if you wish. My Banks turbo was installed 17 years...

My experience with gearing started with installing 35s on the already doggy 6.2 with 3.08s, but at least they allowed me to go down the freeways with relative ease. Up hills was a different matter. Long story short, with a Banks turbo, a built 700R4, and 4.10 gears (in 3/4-ton axles), life was...

If both outputs on the sender has the same function it would be a real blessing for those with low oil pressure. Then they could connect both outputs to the pressure gauge and double the reading on the gauge.

I stand corrected. Always heard that the larger automatics soaked up more power, and with larger (and sometimes more) parts, it made sense to me. Getting rotating mass up to speed versus keeping it in motion are obviously two different things.

If this trend catches on, my abandoned project is for sale. An '82 barn door diesel Sub with a Dynatrac rear axle (Detroit) and rebuilt front with True Trac (3.73 gears), built 6.5 w/turbo, TCI 4L80E with computer, Atlas transfer case, and more. Including an M1008 rear bumper, come to think of it.

Pure guesswork on my part, but being that the OM352 seems to be a common engine, it probably has an even more common sending unit. Have you tried that path?

I tried that with mine, remember? Didn't work. It refuses to self-indentify as a semi. But it does get used to pull many more semi trailers since the bed came off.

Not quite. They are tractors pulling semi trailers (which almost all trailers are, but that's another story). But yes, they're not true trucks as there is no bed to put a load on. Truck tractor seems to be a common description, presumably to differentiate them from farm tractors, but since they...

Have yet to figure out why things on this particular SEE aren't lined up quite like on other FLUs. That the tank sits a couple of inches higher than normal isn't due to forklift damage (although there is plenty of it, both underneath and in the sheet metal). I think that the front of the bed is...

Okay, got the QD numbers for the ones I use. They're FF-371-8FO and FF-372-8FO. Those were the ones I chose for NPT hoses with adapters. You may want different ones depending on if you use NPT, O-ring, or JIC hoses. Are those the correct ones? I don't know for sure. Took measurements off the...

Excellent point on the torque converter, which I thought about after posting last night. A mismatched converter can screw up the performance of an otherwise good setup. But that transmissions don't suck power I disagree with. I think we can agree on that there's a noticeable difference between...

Maybe it is semantics, but it bugs me when things are called something different than what they are. An aftercooler, charge air cooler, or intercooler could well be the same item, but referred to by different names depending on its application. Although, aftercooler and charge air cooler appears...

Man, you have a knack for breaking stuff. Have you tried putting fluids in those things? It's my understanding that most drivetrain components work longer with lubrication.

It would be great to be able to drop the tank completely, but I don't see that happening without removing the rear bracket. Or the bed above it. If you don't mind, what sort of sockets/wobblies/extensions did you use for the rear bracket (you did mention air tools earlier)? I had to use a...

Wish I could've done that. Did you really remove the rear bracket, too? Had the tank sat just a bit lower on this SEE I could've slid it forward after only removing the straps. And could've worked on the hose connections without moving or removing anything.

Okay, I'll look them up tomorrow. MSC direct is a good source, but I generally get the males and females from different places, going for the lowest prices for each.

I had planned on doing that, but as you can see in the picture, there really wasn't enough room for pulling it out.