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Yeah, it is surprisingly good. After all the stress of finding all the parts individually, as well as making all the wires and connections and whatnot; if I have to do it again I'm just buying this kit. The few dollars saved aren't worth the hassle.

usually for the NO.CO chargers they will stay with whatever the last charger setting was, unless it's been a long time. Can't comment for the 26000, but I have the 7500 and 15000. It's just hook it up, and if it isn't the right setting press the button a couple of times. Putting it to the...

So to my understanding that 200 amp transfer switch is required because the service to the house is rated at 200 amps. The generator size doesn't really matter as long as it's maximum possible output is LESS than the 200 amps the switch and panel are rated for. The way the code works though is...

So I'm slightly confused with what you are trying to say/accomplish. You mention adding a battery maintainer, and I assume to wire it in using a shore power type inlet plug at the rear of the truck requiring you to run a power cable from wherever you mount the maintainer in the truck to that...

You can piece it together yourself, but for not much more money for the wiring there are kits available https://blackdogcustoms.com/product/reverse-light-wiring-kit-4-speed/?fbclid=IwAR12Pb-1Tu0KF1WzFS3aTwakycoPjJQQX4Mg9wV4ZV8V6NkuEXz-kpebeNQ

first step, find an original ignition switch to replace the aftermarket one. The aftermarket switches are notorious for causing all types of electrical system issues, as well as the possibility of catching fire and burning up your truck.

it varies city/country around here. Some areas don't care, others won't let you do anything without a permit and inspection, and they can get really pissy about things they don't understand. Stanby generators fall under that category for a lot of the inspectors around here.

so here is a manual for one of the other models, but a lot of the information is going to be the same or very similar for this one. http://www.get-psi.com/TM/TM-2005077/TM-2005077.pdf and another http://docshare04.docshare.tips/files/3797/37973021.pdf

but to answer the question, yeah, I was going to strip everything off and turn it into a utility type trailer. The hole where the gen sits will need to be filled, but it already has bars along the side/top to make a decent start for walls, or just cut them all off and make it a flatbed. It's...

For this trailer it could be either a 20kw or a 33/35kw, but definitely 3 phase. The one we had in Korea this size was a 12 ton ECU and 35kw generator. I towed it with a 5 ton. I have one of the smaller chassis I turned into a surrogate drash setup, an 802A and a 3 ton nordicair with 1/3 of...

so you won it. I placed bids on both of them, didn't win either. I just want the chassis from one. Anyway, good luck finding any type of manuals, I haven't really found anything much that is useful. Just be aware without tents on the back it's going to be pretty tongue heavy, especially if...

Just make sure the inverter system you use is capable of both grid intertie as well as stand alone operation. I've come across a few setups where the grid intertie inverter won't function at all without a signal from the grid. Usually a standby generator will also give it the necessary signal...

So a generac ATS is controlled by the brain inside the generator. It's relatively dumb. Without a generator capable of sending a 12V signal through the transfer relay, all you really have is a manual transfer switch with some extra wiring and electron These two things (highlighted and...

For a load bank for my generator I found a NordicAir 3 ton ECU. The heat coils are good for about 9.6kw of load. I'm using it with an 802, so I disabled one set of coils and it pulls a little over 6kw pure resistive.

I'd say not likely. You're usually talking a couple hundred amps of power needed to crank an engine. Diesel engines need more than gasoline engines. Even if it does have enough power, the throttle might not be able to respond to the instant demand for full load, and cause the engine to bog...

I crank it back and forth a few times with it not running until I stop hearing bubbles coming out of the lines, top it off. Start the truck let it idle for a minute or two without touching anything else, top it off. Turn the steering a little bit with it running until the fluid level drops, then...

I've been told that while DEXVI is a direct replacement for DEX3, it has a higher failure rate in this application than the DEX3 did. I ended up using Lucas semi-synthetic ATF, which supposedly works with almost any ATF, and claims to meet or exceed DEX3 specs, as the only stuff I had on hand...

power steering pump was on the way out, so ordered a replacement. Saturday it still worked fine, just noisy. Monday turn it on to drive it and have no power steering. Replaced the pump monday afternoon. Had to go to NAPA for the pulley install tool (note: pulley removal requires a 2 slot...

Okay, so got a private message about this, and I'll share the results. Basically, it really should be a 2 person job. One person to keep it topped off every time a big air bubble comes out and the fluid level drops. I apparently just wasn't keeping the fluid level high enough. Last go round I...

So I know this is an old thread, but yesterday I replaced my power steering pump (early style serpentine belt type), along with the 2 lower pressure lines going back to the pump. I can't seem to get the air out of the system. So my question is how much of the system or lines are under...