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Clint, Thanks for your efforts to streamline the registration. I know it takes time and effort to make all this happen behind the scenes. Thanks. Eddie

I am looking forward to this year as usual. It’s been a busy year for me and I need a break. I got my truck about ready to go. Hammer down north bound with Sandcobra in the lead position. Eddie

They would be crossed at the hydraulic head if that is your issue.

you probably need to check the firing order on the injection lines to ensure they are not crossed up.

Be very careful airing up those lock ring wheels. You really should do that in a safety cage. Some people use chain as a restraint in case the ring blows off. Many people have been injured or killed dealing with multi piece wheels. If the wheels are in good shape the risk is low but there is...

James you are correct in TM 9-2320-361-24-1 it calls for the inner lug nuts torque to be 400-425 ft lbs and the outer nuts to be 325-355 ft lbs. I think this is to help prevent turning the inner nut if not using the gear reduction lug tool that drives off of the square end. I learn something new...

According to TM 2320-209-10-4 the torque value in that document is 325-350 ft lbs for the lugs. I have used 350 as a target. It also depends in my opinion on what lube is on them. With anti seize I think 350 is adequate. Just my opinion. Eddie

Is there any possibility that the cam is out of time? Or you have a bad coil?

This doesn't make any sense. How would you get 29V out of a 6V and a 12V. If they were connected in series it would be about 19V. I would get 2 new 12V batteries to install. Depending on the battery box dimensions you might be able to fit 2 group 31 batteries in. I used group 27 as they fit...

Since you have repeated problems with one hub I would consider replacing it. There may be an issue you can't see causing it to leak.

We all can learn from each other. Everyone can contribute and it's that attitude of sharing that makes this hobby enjoyable. Thanks to all that share their skills and experience. Eddie

If you were closer I would blast them for you. Sandblasting is the most effective way to clean up rusted steel. I have been blasting for over 25 years and have a large professional set-up. My blast pot hold 6,000 lbs of sand fed from a 30 ton storage silo...

Just an idea you could fill the cooling system and use a block heater. I am not sure that level of heating is enough to help. I would use a penetrant like PB Blaster in the cylinders over ATF you need a thin fluid to penetrate down...

Most of these trucks run under 200*F. Mine runs steady at 180 regardless of load. I would suggest you check temp with a mechanical gage as suggested. if the temp is high you probably have a thermostat or radiator issue.

The fuel shutoff is probably stuck closed. You need to remove the cover that holds the shutoff rod and make sure the lever is free moving. It is shutoff in the rearward position and should return back to about a 7 oclock position when released. You may have to spray some penetrating spray on it...

Nice work. It's satisfying to be able to make your own parts. Eddie

OK now I better understand the issue. Before this post I really had little understanding of hose rating and J30R10 standards. This makes sense now with the changes in gasoline and the impact it has on rubber components. I will take practical experience and use that. Not having the current rating...

Gimp is right sandblasting works great to clean up rubber. I do that all the time but I am also a commercial blaster too,

I would get the in-tank pump running and change all the filters. Then I would ensure a constant fuel supply to the hydraulic head. That will eliminate any issues up to the injection pump. If the fuel shut-off is free and still a no crank then you may have a hydraulic head issue. Eliminate all...

I would take it out for a hard run to burn off any oil and see if it continues. These engines need to be leaned on some and run hard. Short runs and little load allows some buildup so go run it.