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Guess I should have done the same - instead of re-posting my own files...:idea: See, a lot of info - if not most everything - about the HF54 steering gear (and its variants) has already been posted on SS. So it all depends on how you search. In this case, the very first thread that pops up...

See it here....

No. Look again.... Most likely the block; crank and eventually even the camshaft are scrap. Valves on that cylinder may be damaged, too.

That engine looks fairly new; probably did not survive its first test run... $500 (+ cost for pick-up) is fair enough just for all the external parts. Heads, manifolds, turbo, IP, injectors....that alone is worth much more, if you had to buy everything, separately.

I stand corrected, Wes! Your part number is right; mine was wrong... Just confirmed: the flanges of the T-138 and T-1138 are the same size but they have different splines.:doh: Sorry Olly, that suggested part in my post above WILL NOT WORK for a T-1138! FWIW, both, front and rear output...

Did it for ya... NSN 2520-00-734-6802; part# A3280G1957 Meritor uses either 5WCS32-37A or A3280G1957; Navistar has it as ​99023R11 Olly: Do a google-search for "Navistar ​99023R11" and buy that flange NOS for $75, free shipping. Or maybe post a WTB-ad, here in our classifieds. A good...

Chris, he is replacing the stock T-138 TC with a T-1138 from the M939 series. So there are no more sprags to be controlled/shifted; just one dash-mounted air switch needed, and a single line to the new T-case. To Olly: check out this thread, if you haven't seen it yet.

The original studs are Grade 8, Ø 9/16", L=2-3/8", threaded 12- and 18 tpi, respectively. (L = 2-1/4" may also work). Closest I could find online is this one... If you are also missing any of the tapered, split bushings, here are the exact measurements...

Yes.

Yes, it's exactly the same top for all M44 series trucks, as well as the M39 & M809 series of 5-ton trucks.

Most likely the very popular 10-on-335mm pattern, then. (335mm = 13.19")

I see - you already asked this same question in the M715Zone.com forum - and also the responses to it. It seems to me that there isn't too much demand for any such adapters, for a company to have them readily made. I think the most logical option would be to swap the hubs to end with the...

Good so! Time to update your profile/location, then...:smile:

I know... but he wanted to be asked, anyway!?:-)

What you have there is a Code "E" pump (part# 10935264-2) which came on the LDT465-1C. The HD90100A head is correct for that model pump. Someone may have eliminated the FDC.

Yep, s**tt happens easily, when we get distracted. Blame it on your friend...:p (Something to add to your signature, maybe? Like "... & destroy radiators"...):-) Thank God it wasn't your arm or leg! Take care!

Good job, Garrett. Everything looking nice and clean! I see you did change that front crossmember to the earlier, M35A1-style. Better so! Also interesting: that particular oil pan model seems to fit perfectly for this application. Certainly makes it all much easier. If it's no secret, post...

Yes, cut a slice off of the original lip (~7mm wide), cut that ring open, slightly curved it to the lesser diameter and then just tack-welded in place after shortened. Create a nice deep welding groove on the inner side, then the same on the outer, making sure you get 100% penetration. Not...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?77570-M1008-Rim-Size-and-Backspace&p=980525&viewfull=1#post980525

None that I know of... Here is what I did with a set of FMTV wheels, to be able to fit the Conti MPT81: Besides modified bead flanges, these wheels also needed a different center (10-on-335mm). Not in your case, though.