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I'm replacing the shaped gasket seals under the top cover on the control panel end. After a bit of research I found "Frost King SS20BR" smoke seal. It is a self-adhesive silicone material that comes in a roll. It is used to seal the gaps in smokers, so it can handle the heat. When I look at the...

Wow, did not see that coming... With this kind of single-minded focus, drive, and productivity you are married? That is one special woman, hold onto her! :beer: -- Carl

Could the pushrod have started to bind, causing the valve to kiss the piston, and causing the rocker arm to have to push "harder" until it hit the point where the rocker arm broke? Could raising the oil pressure have had anything to do with it?

I had a local radiator shop clean mine out. I asked them what the best way to get a replacement would be, if I needed one. They said they'd take the ends off and put a new core in the middle. Do you have anything to work with, or are you starting with no radiator? -- Carl

I'm glad you found something definitely wrong. I hate it when I do a bunch of investigation with nothing specific to show for it. I hope I never have to get into my engine like this, but it gives me confidence to know that I can draw on the expertise of all you rocket genuises if I do! :)

Search for "Anderson Metals Brass Hose Fitting, Tee, 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" Barb". I pulled the hose from one of the injectors and tied in there with some fuel line from the local generator parts... err... that is... auto parts place. My Mr. Gasket 1561 Fuel Pressure Gauge began leaking fuel after...

Understood, good idea. Suggest you diagnostically eliminate the parts of the fuel system after the gauge.

The pressure that you want to know is further along, like where the last injector pulls off the fuel rail. If you've still got pressure there when it starts to die then it's not fuel pump related. With an undamped gauge you'll see a range of pressures as the injection pump draws on the supply...

Where and how are you measuring your fuel pressure? Seems like you could do a dead head test that looks great but still have an issue that manifests in a certain window of operation. -- Carl

My fuel pump thread might be helpful: MEP-803a AirTex fuel pump substitution

Are you load banking your set with the wire coiled on the spool? I remember reading somewhere about heat being an issue when you run power through a coil of wire. Might be worth looking into...

I've never tried to disassemble anything sealed with butyl tape, so that's good to know. I want a no mess, easy to disassemble solution. I used silicone caulk the first time around and it worked great, but it's glued together and requires quality time with a scraper to take it apart and clean...

Yep, that would seal it. However, based on my experience using it with metal roofing, I'm not sure I'd ever be able to get it apart again... :) -- Carl

I've been thinking about what, other than silicone, I could use to seal the gap. Found some 1/16" thick by 1" wide neoprene tape. Right dimensions but not squishy enough. Seems like we need some soft rubber tape that has bubbles in it, like they use to seal the gaps around the radiator. I got...

Yes! If you format your data values to look like OBD2 messages you can send them to apps like Torque Pro, that provide tons of display options, logging, and data export. Nice piece of embedded development! :beer: -- Carl

Interesting question... If there's no load on the supply lines yet, there would be no current flowing through them, right? If you stick multiple lines with loads through a CT you get a summing of the current. Put your current clamp around L1and L3 leads with a 240 volt load and you get zero...

During load testing yesterday I noticed my voltage was a little low. When I tried to adjust it higher I reached the stop before I got to 120v. I noticed that if I slowly adjusted it up or down that the voltage on the Kill A Watt display didn't smoothly move up or down, it would jump or go the...

Thanks for sharing this, where do you plan to mount it? -- Carl

Mike, Thanks for the feedback. I want a minimalist setup for load testing. My thought is to mount a twist lock (TL) to the back of the stove, wire TL ground connection to rod, tie TL ground to TL neutral, and wire the stove right into the back of the TL. I'm on the fence about a breaker...

Picture where ground and neutral are tied together on your house: right where the transition from supply side to load side occurs. When you are generating for the house, that location is after your generator inlet and before any load. With a stove it needs to be in the same place. I would tie...