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No, you're not wrong: your approach is by the book. I'm coloring outside the lines. If there's anything wrong with my approach, I think the same issue exists when we're set up to power a house. That's what I'm trying to sort through. I've probably spent too much time reading and it is driving...

I've got Mike Holt's illustrated guide to the National Electrical Code 2017 and it has a great chapter on grounding and bonding. I've read those 95 pages several times now and highly recommend it as a resource. I'm not an electrician (not even an internet electrician) so do your own research and...

I like your setup... now I want a trailer! :) The only planned use for my generator is to provide backup power for the house. Everything is set up properly for that. I need to do periodic stove runs to keep the gremlins at bay. My thought is to replicate the same connections that are used...

Let's approach it a different way, because I may be missing something. When you are testing with the stove, how do you attach your ground to the generator? Do you have the mess with the ground lug inside the generator access panel? -- Carl

Just north of Orlando. -- Carl

I use a cord with the same ends you have in your picture. There will be a twist lock on the house and a twist lock on the stove. Same cord used for either one, but only one at a time. No need to tie/untie neutral and ground on the generator to switch between house and testing. Ground will always...

Thanks, man. Here's the backstory for those who are interested... I started out looking at HD's Reliance 50 amp weatherproof receptacle. My original plan was to attach it right over where the 803 power outlet sock was located. Once I got it home I didn't like how far it was sticking out. I fork...

My plan is to install the same generator inlet on the house and my load test oven so that I can plug my cord into either one, testing the whole path the same way that I use it. The ground wire of the load inlet will be attached to a ground rod, just like inside the main breaker panel at the...

I second the condensation theory. If you look at the underside of the top panels you can sometimes see what look like water spots, where drops have formed. We've had a lot of rain and heat lately. -- Carl

I put silicone between mine and I can confirm it was a PITA to remove the panels. On the other hand there was no water intrusion. I'm thinking about trying some thin rubber tape, kind of like a flat gasket between the edges. -- Carl

Got my outlet plug and cover all sealed up and painted. -- Carl

Following up... water pump seems to be working fine. -- Carl

Thanks for posting this. Updates... When you call ask for Brenda. The part number is SPS1008821091 (not SDS). The cost is now $78 plus shipping. -- Carl

Pictures... better late than never! :) -- Carl

Thanks for the info, Guy, that must have been frustrating! Did the units start and then slowly die as the vacuum built, or not even start? -- Carl

So I got a new fuel cap and now I can read the writing that says vent open and closed, also that vent closed is for vapor lock and fording. I searched through the TM 9-6115-642-10 operator's manual but see no references to the fuel cap vent. Did I look in the right place? Do any of you guys ever...

Here is what I am using: https://m.ebay.com/itm/Water-Pump-for-Lister-Petter-DN2M-DN4M-LPW2-LPW4-Engines-Onan-Generator-/182730283610 Looks the same side by side. Give me another week or so and I will report back. -- Carl

Thanks for sharing, how did you know I'm replacing my water pump?!? :) -- Carl

Some of those remind me of Dinse twist locks for welding cable. How about using welding cable and a ground clamp to connect to the ground rod? -- Carl

Interested to see what you come with for this, I want to do the same thing. -- Carl