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I was asking in case the winterizing additives are orange/red, or if the previous owner used red farm fuel it could cause this, etc. There are a bunch of logical reasons there could have been red stuff in there, so it's not safe to assume anything. I like Suprman's rusty return line theory...

I don't think it's that simple, which is why I asked. The fuel isn't coming from one place... Shell, Murphy Express, Love's, 7-11. It does get cold here, which the heat / cold cycles could be "breathing" moisture into the tank, however, it's basically a desert here. It's usually 15%...

No, not really. More often at the couple gas stations near home, but I get gas wherever.

How often do you guys drain your water separator, and how much water comes out? It seems like every several tanks I can get about this much out. Why is it orange? Rust? Aren't the tanks aluminum? This all strikes me as odd, considering how it's basically always 15% humidity here. Any...

Welcome. Interesting use... what's your vision/reason for "making on the go"? Just a nomad? Demonstrations / teaching? Disaster aid?

The ZeroStart block heater part number is listed in the spreadsheet here in my signature, also.

Yes, there is a parasitic draw when batteries are in parallel, but it's not drastic, and the AGMs would handle it better (lower internal resistance). Taking away 1/2 your battery capacity to get rid of it is a really silly solution. If it bothers you that much, adding an isolator...

In short, what you did is worse in almost every measurable way, electrically. It will probably be good enough for your needs, since the system is admittedly overkill to begin with, but hopefully people don't read your post and think "That guy said the 12V drop was bad, so I need to mimic his...

You met your original goal of "wanting to get rid of the 12V drop", but that goal wasn't an improvement (besides using COtS batteries, which would have been electrically better with 4, or even 2). Can you explain why the "12V drop" is an issue?

That doesn't seem like a very good idea. Can you explain more?

With 3.07:1 gears... the truck won't go over 58MPH stock, and certainly not in 6th gear. I typically cruise at 65MPH, low in RPM just after the shift to 7th.

At 60MPH mine is still in 6th gear, so it's basically at max RPM, just before the shift.

Where do you buy blemished batteries? (And who is so picky about their batteries that they would pay more for perfectly unblemished batteries?)

This is a 5 year old post. But you can roughly budget for $2-3/mile.

Press and hold the ether button, just after you press the starter button (after it has rotated the engine a couple times). It will deliver a single measured ether charge, then stop adding ether even if you continue to hold the button. If you're not getting any reaction after holding the ether...

That's called a Double-Cardan joint. It's weaker, and one of the military engineering reports says specifically that they considered it, but couldn't get one strong enough.

While using synthetic grease can't hurt, I don't think it's going to significantly change any of this issue. The cause of the spline issues is the combination of drive angle geometry, joint style, robustness vs. weight trade-offs, and several other factors. My interpretation is that once the...

Generally, yes. Over time, the balance could degrade - the military testing showed this. I would be cautious, and get them checked every several years, or if you damage/replace something in the driveline. Considering how destructive it could be, this seems like good prevention.

While that certainly wouldn't help, the causes are very well documented and understood, and the are due to the design of the shafts.

There should be a diagram inside the lid, if they left it.