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You won't need to do both. I played around with it last winter, trying to see what it takes. As a baseline, how hard is the engine to start with no heater, and no ether? Not terrible. A few 30-second cranking rounds and it should catch. It will lope and exhaust "smoke" (unburned atomized...

"Simple" is not the same thing as "quick and easy". Lots of things are conceptually simple, but a pain to actually do.

I think a few things might be getting confused. The LMTV rims use a standard-style valve stem, but the valve core has been removed so that the CTIS can inflate/deflate it at-will. Usually what people are talking about is that they are looking for what kind of valve core to stick in the valve...

The freeze plug heater is listed in my parts spreadsheet here in my signature.

Not really, but I detailed HOW you come up with one that works, in a post above. So you can start with my settings, and see if you need to adjust.

Thanks, that's exactly how some of the connectors on my truck look.

For $1/ea, I think just replacing the boots is a good option. I don't like half-a$$ing things.

Usually with electrical connectors they call it based on the pins, unless it has both kinds of pins in which case they call it by the housing. Anyways, so going off this picture, you're saying I can replace the female boots easily, by just removing the c-clip and sliding them off? My...

Just to make sure I'm understanding... This is the "male connector", consisting of a female boot with the male pin it. You're saying you need a 4-prong crimper or solder for these (if I need to replace the pin itself only), and that you can slide the boots off of these easily...

Has anyone replaced the wiring boots, such as those on the headlight connectors? I see that McMaster sells the boots separately, and a bunch of mine are starting to split from age. Can you just slide the old boot off and put a new one on?

Looks like these are probably the correct push nuts: https://www.mcmaster.com/92043A100/

Very clever. So they are a "push nut" for a larger size screw, that just happens to fit over this regular 5/16" nut.

No armrests at all, fixed or pull-up.

It's not decorative in this use. It fits over the nut, making it a little wider, so that when it's sitting in the seat track it fits more closely. This lets the seat track act as the "wrench" to hold the nut, while you install the bolt. From the looks of the part, they just seem much more of...

I finally got around to designing up an adapter mounting plate, and installing my GSC Cobra seat. Pretty comfortable, even though the "padding" is surprisingly rigid. Does anyone know what these little silver shields that go over the nuts are called?

It's Loctite 243, but it still doesn't set well in the presence of oil/contamination. It just has better oil resistance after it is set. So I still prefer the tab washers, for the reasons I mentioned above.

Under ideal conditions the Loctite is fairly equivalent. On our driveshafts, there are a couple things I like better about the tab washers (lock plates you bend over). 1. They "just work". Doesn't matter if it's hot or cold, greasy, wet, etc. Loctite really needs the fasteners to be cleaned...

Your old fan has a center? The new fan is the one with the steel center plate. The old one is the one with the big hole through it, and the rubber grommets that many people don't like.

I've had two different Spicer u-joints for this truck - one was made in the USA that was nice but did not come with the tab washers, and one that was made internationally (I think, it was cheaper and had a different part number) but did come with the tab washer. I've also had Neapco joint, and...

Around here, they only charge $60/ea for tire changes. I did a couple, and now that I know how to do it should I ever need to, I'm happy to pay the $60 and just "come back in a couple hours". That said, just keep a couple pieces of pipe around, and it's really easy to get the tire+wheel on/off...