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I'll try to attend. That weekend is my father-in-laws birthday, which means we may be getting together on Sunday, so I'll have to clear it with management!

Maybe start by tightening the bolts?

Contact OKC Auction Services, you'll see their ads at the top of the page. M1075 here on Steel Soldiers is the owner. They do good work.

I finally got around to checking out the A3 at my shop. That part does not move.

I'm working on an A3 today, I'll take a look to see if it does the same.

I'm not sure exactly which bolt holes you're seeing, but the "U" shaped notch that the steering column goes through will be in line with the round steering column hole in the firewall. Because of the notch on the back of the support, that's off-center and fits over the bulge in the firewall...

Regarding your underdash supports, the one on the left is for the glove box side the other is for the steering column side. There should already be a hole in the defroster duct for the upper bolt for the steering column. It's a "punch out", like on electrical boxes. Maybe your's isn't punched...

Laden or unladen? style.org > Estimating the Airspeed Velocity of an Unladen Swallow

On the steering column bracket; the bolt goes through the bracket, then the dash and finally the defrost duct. You put the nut on through the "tube" where the defrost duct flex pipe mounts, from the back side. Put a socket on a short extension, put the nut in the socket, insert it in the tube...

I can help.... That black thing is mounted under the truck!!!

Obviously, for safety purposes, check your brake fluid. But, as others have said it's most likely gear oil from the axle. Before you go ripping into it to replace all the seals, make sure your axle vents are not plugged or stuck.

The engine kill cable goes through a hole towards the top of the firewall. More-or-less in line with it's mount point on the dash. The throttle cable goes through a hole where the floorboard and firewall meet, kind of behind the brake pedal. There's a cable locknut fitting that goes in the hole...

Post # 3: the holes under the procurement tag were all unused on my truck. In my attached pics in a previous post you can see my battery kill switch and heater switch in some of those holes, but that's not original to the truck. Post # 4: the green "box" is the low air buzzer that goes inside...

I photograph everything before I take it apart, because I know how bad my memory is!

The wiper thingy goes into the hole on the left of the steering column (where you have your red start button) and the start button goes on the right side. The copper air line feeds to the far left side of the dash and exits through a 1/4" or so hole in the top of the dash and then up the left...

They're a b*@ch!!! I don't think there is an easy way. The beadlock won't stop them from deflating but will let you re-inflate a flat tire. Without the beadlock, i suspect a flat will easily pop the tire off the bead and re-inflation might be a challenge. Good luck!

If a fellow would type in a search term like (exactly like) "Converter regulator 24V 12V 20a 240W" at Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles, Coupons and More Online Shopping | eBay, he'd like what he sees..... There are many converters on E-Bay and most are junk, but the above search will...

Easy enough job, doable in a day. More-or-less: Remove passengers seat remove shifter remove tunnel covers remove trans to t-case drive shaft disconnect clutch linkage remove MOST bell housing cover nuts poke a cherry picker through the passer door to support trans (overhead crane with soft...

I don't think you need transportation.... I think you need an intervention and a 12 step program!!!!

I've got tree-hugging friends that live in Boston and own a Prius. For them a Prius is functional, most of their commuting time is spent waiting for traffic lights to change to green. A Prius or just about any hybrid doesn't work in the wide open spaces of the midwest were I'm located. The...