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My xm757 comes with a "dummy" light for transmission overheat warning and I'd like to replace it with a gauge. A "transmission temp" gauge has a 160 to 320 °F range from what I understand, but I would rather use a regular MS24543-2 coolant temp gauge with a 120 to 240 range for better resolution...

Early models use 25 amp generators with external regulator mounted on firewall. Later, 1970 or so, the 60 amp alternator replaced the generator/regulator system. Often the alternator regulator fails because of loose battery connections, which will cause damaging electrical "spikes" Main reason...

The CB ground must be connected to the converter grounds, not vehicle ground as shown, since you are keeping the converter outputs "floating" (=separate from vehicle power). You may need to find a way to ground the converter outputs, there may be issues with the CB antenna, which needs a good...

For small power demands, a few amps, I use what I call Point of Load (POL) converter(s). image shows an example where 12 volts was needed for a temperature gauge. It's homemade and built from parts laying around on my work bench. Being a series type converter, ground is not a problem, same on...

I think this is a good thread, but some diagrams are needed to understand each hook-up, perhaps user manual do's and don'ts would help.

DOT approved or not, keep in mind that the deuce brake line pressure is 2,000 psi nominal.

Hmm...didn't have that much to do with it except for some corrections and additions, never had any problem with the 1965 -20 TM version, but thanks anyway.

Ryan, yes it was sold last year, pressure from above... Gimp, thanks no problem with parts, fortunately, just some FO without damage. The 465-2 IP is different in some ways, it uses a "torque link" to reduce shift shock during automatic shifting, a part not found in any other multifuel IP...

Of course the images are out of order after uploading... The spring piece is shown below.

Been driving the 757 a bit lately and have had problems with the throttle sometimes sticking. On my latest drive, the governor mechanism locked up in "full throttle" and I had a lot of fun driving it about 2 miles back home, braking and shifting the automatic transmission within permissible road...

Don't know about that particular flux capacitor, gimp, but do keep in mind that the push button switch is an electronic device and should ideally be out of the circuit (=off) when the engine is cranked due to possible damaging voltage spikes. Many a regulator has blown when a loose battery...

More images... The circulation pump is electric and is wired to turn on in "HI" mode only.

The heater may be mounted horizontally or vertically, see attached images. The normal location for the m35 install, is in the battery compartment with the batteries moved into the cab.

The coolant heater does not need a pump. It is mounted below the engine coolant jacket and works on convection only, just like the electric ones. However, there is a circulation pump that is used in some installations for extreme cold conditions, but not needed for normal operation.

Imperfection can be beautiful.

The 300 Watt inverter can pretty much be hooked up anywhere since most wiring on the truck is 14 or 16 gauge. Good to see that you have a pure sine wave type, modified sine wave will create unwanted noise...

What will it be used for?

Only the NSN 2540-00-930-2045.

The basic heater does not need a pump, the coolant/water is circulated by convection. However, there is a pump available for some installations as shown in the image.

So far, only the cranetruck...and that wasn't planned.