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Your best bet would probably be to remove the dash so you can inspect all of the sockets, inspect the circuit panel, give everything a good cleaning. It would take maybe an hour to remove the circuit panel and another hour replacing it after you have completed everything. I think you are...

Check all the connections to the alternator. Pull the electrical connections apart and clean all the black gunk out of the connectors. Better yet if the connectors are full of the black gunk these trucks are famous for, replace the connections with new ones.

When I check my transmission fluid when it is warm and it reads low, if I don't have any fluid on hand I just drive it until it's hot then check it, problem solved.

Classic Parts 1967-87 Chevy Trucks Instrument Panel Bulb Socket $.99 cents.5/8'' round hole. There are many other places that carry them as well.

First off, where is the leak coming from. It must be coming from the transmission pan gasket. That is an easy fix. You should be able to tell where the oil is leaking from. Clean and wash the area from fluid, run the motor and see where the leak is coming from. As the motor and fluid warms up...

Just twist the bulb socket and remove it, inspect it for damage and get a new one if needed.

Those circuit boards if I remember correctly are not really attached by anything other than the sockets holding them in place. it is normal for them not to be plastered down tight. You will notice that the circuit board will be somewhat wavy in places.

That is your ribbon circuit board. If your bulb socket is not making contact with the copper on the circuit board it obviously will not work. Make sure the ribbon circuit board is in place and making contact with the bulb socket.

I am very sorry to hear about the loss of your friend.

I would pull the pan and check to make sure your pick up tube inside the pan is seated correctly and the bolt holding the filter is tight and secure. Make sure the seal on the pickup tube is on correctly. Pouring fluid into your transmission and not having it register sounds like your very low...

I'm just saying that down shifting to a lower gear going from a higher speed than what that gear is geared for would cause excessive rpm's

I don't push my motor ever to make it shift. Just let it slow down and take your time and if it needs to shift on it's own without forcing it it will down shift. To each their own, I drive my truck conservatively knowing that it is engineered within limits of torque speed and rpms. I don't...

I run with the standyne diesel fuel additive and it is noticeably smoother and more quite. Maybe excess noise might be from timing being advanced slightly.

Good job, Thanks. It starts and runs good right?

How did those poly mounts fit? Did they fill up the space in the clam shell properly.

If you could share your next time easier way of doing the job next time for other members that may be doing the same job in the future that would be helpful. I would be curious myself to know the bitch parts of the job to avoid.

My fishing buddy must have the same kind of mufflers on his arse!!

It was fine when I brought it in to him!

It was starting and running before sitting idle for weeks, you have a fuel leak that has been on going all that time. You have lost your prime. I think your only problem is your fuel system. If you get it temporarily running it will just happen again. Fixing your fuel system is a basic job less...

You have been driving with a leak in the fuel system and so far dodged a bullet from breaking down and needing to get a tow. This is a gift that it won't start at home. Don't push your luck, fix it while your safe at home.