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Keep in mind, the Wires do not go from TB8 directly to the exciter. They go through P5/J5 C-Plug. Several times I have found that the P5/J5 was loose, OR pins in the plugs were burnt off. So stand on your head and check that plug. Its on the underside of the control panel. You can use a mirror...

OK, first open the control panel. Then look at the A1, (Volt Regulator). To the left of the A1 should be a big honking fuse. 1. Is it there? 2. Have you tested it?

Will, I thought I sent you a copy of TM 9-8028. Its supposed to replace the TM 9-837. Guy

If something caused the components to burn up, then its always possible that it can happen again, if you do not find the cause and properly repair it.

While there are TM's available, they are not coded for public release, and so can not be posted here. There are several threads here in the forum that cover this problem and I believe if you look at them, they explain how to make a cable. The proper TM number is TM 11080A-O1

Truly, a picture would help a lot. Then you/we can see what needs to be replaced. AND, it might help figure out what happened.

Its hard for me to see what the problem is. Why don't you get the -24 TM out, and test the the meter IAW the TM? In the time its taken you to write the last 3-4 messages, you could have your answer already.

Has the motor always been hooked up the way it was when the motor was burned ? Has anyone fooled with the output reconnection switch? What position was the reconnection switch in, when this happened?

Get the batteries load tested. Get a battery charger designed to "repair" and charge these types of batteries. HAWKERS are extremely hard to kill. Test first. Then decide if you need to get new ones.

Please do not forget that if you want to sell anything in the Steel Soldiers "For Sale Threads", you need to upgrade your membership.

What TM did you use?

OK. Lets get back on track here. Have you disconnected all cables from the load terminals and just left the garage cable on. And tested just THAT part of your circuit?

Nice looking trucks!

Have you ever hooked a DMM to the output load terminals with the gen set off and circuit breaker off? If there is a cable from your hose hooked to the output terminals, (and the terminals are nothing more then a buss bar for all intents and purposes) then there is always a possibility that these...

My seeing eye dog alerted on it. I am sitting here wrapped up in my blankie, sipping warm milk and searching for my store bought false choppers!! :LOL:

In post #19 it shows a picture of the new square S1.

Why would you want a turbine? I never saw a mini turbine. A 150 KW set, a 30 KW set and the MUST, for inflatable hospitals. Turbines are great! Until they don't work. All the ones I worked on, were POS gen sets. Good diesel driven, SIMPLE gen sets.

This is an option. But the problem I would have with it is that if the lacquer is there, you have it everywhere in the IP. So I would time the engine, remove the IP, and soak it a few days. If you do not move the IP, and simply replace it again. then the engine should start, if that was the problem.

One of the wires on the S1 appeared to be "strange". Like it was twisted, Maybe broke. But you have to check the switch AND wires. The attachment is the diagram for the switch.