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The one Guy posted above has easy to read schematics. That version is the 11/1/2000.
I use a 8/15/2005 version that also has good schematics. I don't know offhand if there are any differences in the schematics between those two.
The 2010 version has blurry schematics.
Kurt
Yes, all even numbered terminals on S1 should all be electrically tied together. That connection is indicated by the vertical thick black line running thru 2,4,6 & 8 in the TM's switch schematic in your post.
Looks like you do not have power to all the S1 input terminals since you indicated the fuel pump runs but no voltage at S1-7 when in the start position.
S1 should have ~24 volts DC on terminals 2,4,6 & 8 with the Dead Crank in "Normal" and the Emergency Off switch pulled out.
You need to...
No. That part is the panel mount side of the connector pair P6/J6. It does not come apart. J6 is bolted to the pan of the cube.
The body of J6 simply holds the contacts for P6 to connect to and has the threads for the P6 collar to screw onto. The part sticking up from J6 is just a strain...
To disconnect the P6 from J6 you need to open the door to the right of where the output lugs are.
P6 will be visible above the intake air deflector immediately below J6 in your picture.
To disconnect P6 from J6 turn the knurled collar on P6 closest to the sheet metal to unlock P6. It is usually...
What you are missing is the Contactor. It's a high current relay that sends power from the inverter to the output lugs.
The the item with the blue sticker on it below.
Be careful. Some of those disconnected wires have 120 and/or 240 volts on them!
Withe the set running and no load applied you should see the following approximate voltages at the regulators terminals.
1 to 2. 1.07 vac
3 to 4 120 vac
5 to 6 5 vDC
7 to 8 69 vac
I suspect the issue with your set is that the 120 vac that's suppose to go to the regulator on terminals 4 & 4...
Here is an explaination of the pins on A2 and what they do.
The 24 VDC voltages noted below are approximate values.
P4-1 Battle Short
This is an input to A2 from S7 the Battle Short Switch. With BS OFF this pin will be at 24 VDC. With BS ON this pin will be at 0 VDC.
With BS ON it inhibits A2...
PM me your email. I thought you were someone else!
edit: Email with schematics sent!
You need to put enough fuel in it to get the Low Fuel fault to go away. Sometimes the flat sticks so you may need to reach in the tank and jiggle the appropriate float. The Low Fuel Fault to trip K12 and...
The schematics in the newer -13 TM are hard to read but the schematic in an older version is easy to read.
I always use the older TM when needing to look at the schematic.
I just generated a PDF of readable schematics and emailed them to you just now via email.
When pull starting and the batteries are missing or dead you have to manually lift the actuator off the magnet, pin the actuator into the manual start position, hit the compression release valve, move S1 to Run, pull start it. K12's LED will be on once it starts. Once it starts toggle S1...
The Governor Controller A5 module is responsible for making the actuator to lift off the magnet when you start the set when using the electric start.
If it's not lifting off the magnet then there may be an issue with the Governor Controller. They are prone to being flakey or go bad.
There may...
The reason it won't shut down even with the Emergency Stop button is because the K12 Fault relay is tripped.
When it's tripped it kills power to the generator controls including the Governor Controller (GC).
Normal shutdown requires the GC to have power and when S1 is moved to STOP that action...
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