Search results

It's a bit complicated. Internally some chargers connect their negative charging outputs to the 3rd ground pin on the AC input. If both chargers are plugged in their 3rd ground pins on the AC plug are effectively connected together. This makes both battery chargers negative outputs connected...

Yes you can.

If you want to "trickle charge" 24/7/365 be sure to use a smart charger that stops charging once a battery is fully charged and only resumes charging if the battery voltage falls. The best way is to use two 12 volt smart chargers, one one each battery. Second best is to use a 24 volt smart...

OK, you can only charge one of the batteries at a time with that charger. You'd hook the chargers positive to one batteries positive and the chargers negative to the same batterys negative. Doing so will only charge that one battery. Once charged the charger can then be hooked to the second...

Are you using a 12 volt battery charger or a 24 volt battery charger?

Series

Take a look at the -24P TM to see its location. It shows the location of K1. You need to pull the top cover off to get to it. It's in a compartment behind the control cube.

Not sure the pump would have enough oomph to open a check valve. Plus it would put a strain on the pump all the time it's running. You could always add a 24 VDC solenoid valve and trigger it to open when the Aux pump kicks on.

I'd suspect the meter is bad. The meter is an AC ammeter. It's full scale deflection (133%) occurs when 1.0 amps AC is flowing thru it. The meter is connected in series with one of the burden resistors in the Load monitoring circuitry for K8. If you can you may want to swap meters between the...

The gaskets are available on the big auction site. Just search for "5330-01-390-5185 " They do need the bolt holes modified slightly to fit. When the freezer kicks on does the 803's contactor drop out or does the freezer start & run?

Battle Short bypasses most faults. It does not bypass a Short Circuit fault.

I haven't had a chance to fully flush that out but I suspect 24 volts is supplied by the NC contacts on K12 located to the right of A2 on the schematic. Also it looks like K20 gets latched closed when the field gets flashed. Will try to dig further when I get home later today. Of course Guy...

Working on tracing it out for you

The upside down triangles indicate which pin on the diagnostic connector that signal goes to. See Table 2-10 in the -24 TM for the diagnostic connector pinout.

Looks like it's a 1.5 Kohm 10 Watt wire wound resistor. Length 1.78" Diameter 0.375" Digikey has one that match's the specs above. Resistor Manufacturer Vishay Dale Series RS Packaging Cut Tape (CT) Part Status Active Resistance 1.5 kOhms Tolerance ±1%...

Have you downloaded the -24 TM? It has everything you'd want to know about every wire in the set. The schematic and wiring details are in the back of the TM.

With S1 in the RUN position check M6 Terminal "I" (eye) to be sure ~24 VDC is present. Also check that M7's mounting bracket is connected to chassis ground. If that all checks out then I suspect you have a bad sender. With S1 in the RUN position measure the voltage at the Temp Senders terminal...

Just measured again with S1 held in start. All measurements with respect to chassis ground. K15 to R14 voltage is about 22 VDC. Other side of R14 to CR2 is 8.4 VDC Other side of CR2 to F+ is 7.6 due to CR2 voltage drop. So 24 VDC is never present across F+ & F-

Guy, There is a resistor in the Flash circuit, it's R14. That and the diode CR2 after it will drop the 24 volts to something lower when flashing. I'm going to do another start and see what the flash voltage is at Terminals 5 & 6.

I just measured my 802 a minute ago with no load and got these measurements. Terminals 1 to 2 1.07 VAC Terminals 3 to 4 120 VAC Terminals 5 to 6 5.0 VDC Terminals 7 to 8 69.1 VAC With 45% load the only change was.. Terminals 5 to 6 went up to 6.8 VDC