Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
You ought to download the TM's for your set to look part numbers up.
It's TM 9-6115-644-24P
The PN's relative to that switch are:
5930-01-368-2893
8906K4519
88-21076
OK, problem is that K12's LED is ON meaning the set has detected a Fault. When there is a Fault the set will not allow the contactor to be closed under normal conditions.
Are any of the Fault Monitor lamps illuminated?
Are you pull starting the set or using the starter?
Thx for the video and measuring the voltages at the D-E terminals.
After studying the video the surge you are experiencing could be triggered by the set failing to throttle down to a no load speed of ~3,050 RPM. You may want to see if there is anything that may be restricting the mechanical...
With the set running the LED inside K15 should be illuminated.
The LED's in K12 and K14 should NOT be illuminated.
Here are a sequence of test steps to narrow down where the problem is.
1) Battle Short OFF
2) Connect your DC voltmeters negative lead to chassis ground.
3) Set you meter so it...
Can you post a video of the actuator when it's surging?
Also if you have a meter measure the DC voltage across terminals D & E on the controller when it's surging.
At no load the voltage should be almost 0.0 VDC.
Does the DC voltage remain virtually 0.0 or is it bliping up?
1800 RPM for 60 Hz
You ought to download the TM's for that set and get familiar with them. They contain info such as what the RPM should be.
Frequency meter may not be reading correctly.
I'd suggest checking the frequency with something like a Kill-a-Watt meter or other external method.
A few customers have requested the following feature and it is easily accomplished by purchasing a low cost WiFi switch relay.
Remote Start/Stop from anywhere via the internet
If you wish to remotely start and stop the generator using my controller from anywhere via the internet
you can...
See TM 9-2815-252-24 page 3-18
3-9. THERMOSTAT.
3-9.1. Removal.
a. Remove negative battery cable.
b. Drain coolant system, refer to end item maintenance manual.
c. Loosen hose clamp and disconnect outlet hose from thermostat housing (3, FIGURE 3-4).
d. Remove two capscrews (1), washers (2)...
Correct. FU1 is on the output of the alternator. Without it the generator should work just fine except charge the batteries.
Are you sure the panel lights have good bulbs in them?
How you downloaded the TM's for your 802?
Update...
Props to NOCO and their warranty!
I returned my dead G7200 a couple of weeks ago to NOCO under warranty after having it almost 2.5 years.
Just heard back from them and they are shipping me the G15000 for no charge!
I had the same experience at Batteries plus. Looked around the store, found the battery I wanted, went to their website on my phone and ordered the battery.
Seconds later the store had the order. Checked out a minute later.
No core charge :)
I did some battery recovery on a pair of Concord 24 v batteries for my 831's using a constant current recovery technique. I used the technique documented in a Concord battery m as manual. The batteries recovered to 80 and 90% of capacity. However after 6-9 months of off and on use both died...
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!