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With the set OFF...
For starters I'd suggest checking for continuity from K1-12 to Ground.
Then from K1-11 to K8-12.
Then from K1-11 to K8-11
Then From K1-11 to K8-8
Then From K1-11 to K8-7
Then From K1-11 to S5-3
Then From K1-11 to S5-2
Then check that CR3 the end with the white strip is...
The Black knob should be locked in the Start position and not moved.
Looks like someone messed with the top mechanical governor adjustment screw. The factory locking wire and lead seal are missing. Can't tell if the lower locking wire and seal are missing too.
There is an adjustment...
Since you are running it in 240 V mode the most you should pull on one of the 120 legs is ~15 amps at the lugs.
The saws startup current is probably tripping it.
If you don't need 240 volts then reconfigure the inverter to 120 V mode. !! Only do this with the set shut OFF !!
Once you do that...
As mentioned, any fault lights when it trips?
No it is not adjustable. The cap over the green light just unscrews for changing the bulb in the light. Turning it had no affect on the contactor operation.
Do you have a fully charged battey(s) in the set?
If no Fault lights then I'd suggest...
Sorry bout that, was thinking OP gauge.
The Coolant Temp Sensor is MT6 in the schematics.
The wire connected to it is 129Axx
It goes to Connector P7 pin 2.
In turn it's connected to J7 pin 2.
J7 pin 2 is connected to wire 129Bxx which then runs to the Temp gauge (M6) "S" terminal.
Those two wires are suppose to be connected to the cut off RED and BLACK wires hanging down from the Oil Pressure Switch in your last two pictures.
No they are not related to the Oil Pressure gauge not working.
Might want to check the wire from the Oil Pressure Sensor, the goldish thing with...
It's not related to the quad mod. That mod just protects the Quad winding from getting damaged should the voltage regulator fail. The MOV mod helps protect the voltage regulator from failing due to voltage spikes from the quad winding causing the diodes in the regulator to short out.
When I...
For those interested... I found that the Walker 40001 is a perfect fit for the the MEP-831A exhaust.
Bought a 25' length of it and made a flexible exhaust extension so I can run my 831 inside the "warm" garage and vent the
exhaust out one of the garage windows while I'm developing and testing...
With no Faults, Battleshort OFF, set running S5-4, S5-5 and S5-6 should be at 0 volts and S5-2 should be at 24 volts.
The coil terminals of K1 (the unlabelled ones) should both be at 24 volts.
When you toggle S5 to CLOSE and hold it there S5-4, S5-5 and S5-6 should still be at 0 volts and S5-2...
The MOV would have no impact on the battery charging rate.
After each start it's normal to have it up in the green and then slowly drop back to near zero after the set has run and the batteries get recharged after being drawn down some by starting the set.
The -10 TM suggests letting the set warm up for 5 minutes.
From the TM...
Under normal conditions warm up the engine without load for five minutes.
(If required, load can be applied immediately.)
No. In the current firmware build the controller defaults to the Aux Fuel pump to be OFF at each start regardless if it is started via WiFi or 2-Wire.
To enable the Aux Fuel pump the gui must be used to enable the Aux Fuel pump after each start.
This is to prevent the Aux Fuel pump from...
You'll have to take engine/muffler vibration into consideration. Connecting hard pipe directly to the outlet may lead to the muffler cracking.
If it were me I'd look into using some 1 1/4 ID flexible exhaust pipe to do the extension.
That or use a short flexible exhaust hose between the muffler...
I happen to have my 831 apart and got the measurements for you.
The pipe is 1.250" OD and 1.140" ID. The pipe is cut at an angle.
This is what it looks like once you get the cover off and the rubber hose nipple off of the exhaust pipe from the muffler.
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