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I think its safe to say if you aren't capable of repairing it to original than you shouldn't be attempting a hack job. There should be 2 power wires and several that are in the run circuit. these will power the fuel system heater field winding on the alternators and one to run to the switch...
We have some c7 powered kw trucks in our fleet they are the same pumps used on commercial applications any hydraulic shop should be able to id the manufacture and model of the pump and get you a rebuild kit which should consist of some seals a relief valve and O-rings.
unless you need an awd truck I would shy away from a military rig. get an Isuzu or gmc t7500 if you like forward control or an older international from the mid 80's to the mid 90's. Its tough to beat the reliability of those old binder dt 466 motors , the trucks are simple reliable and any...
I think the tractors were rated at 44k gross but that is with a trailer. that's not total weight on the cargo bed first off an mtv would never bridge 44 k between 3 axles on such a short wheel base. I will admit they are over built I had a trailer with a d3 behind my lmtv that was close to 35k...
last time I priced one it was about that, for the guy using the pto daily its the way to go, for those just using the winch a few times a year the army way is just fine.
for the guy using his for roll off containers he would be better off getting a constant mesh hot shift pto we are using these on our fuel delivery trucks and they are great. with twh hot shift you just put the trans in natural and flop the switch and the pto is running.
that would be an aniroid also known as an afc or air fuel control some folks call it a smoke valve to it adjusts the fuel rate to match boost and helps limit extreme smoke under acceleration.
Found the problem the fork that swings the bendix in was bent it was restricting throw by about 3/8 of an inch. I bent things back but when in anchorage I will order another 150.00 drive and a release fork from the rebuilder I got the last one from. I also will pick up a new cat starter and this...
I would be the local rebuilder I have replaced the drive once all ready I will be pulling it out in the morning and see if I can see why the bendix wont swing out enough to catch the flywheel ring gear. Last time I was in it I didn't see any adjustment for the lever like on some other starters I...
If you want a reliable cold start get a swingfire heater kit to install, you will have to use the circ pump, but you will be to operating temp in about 15 minutes. A side benefit is you can stuff mre's in the swingfire tube and they will be at operating temp when you stop for the night.
the dot stamp just says that the part complies with the standard. the dot stamp is a must for air brake systems because every thing is engineered around those dimension's and preformance. you can successfully use a crimped 3500 psi hydraulic hose, but there is no guarantee that you will get the...
been out of the loop for a while as I have been down with the flue the ring gear does show a little wear likely from the drive kicking out the drive seems to only be contacting about 1/16 inch of the ring gear and the drives I remove seem to have about an 1/8 inch eaten off the end of them. the...
get some ds-2 that is why they changed to carc ds2 will remove enamel, but not touch carc. admittedly the military decon agent might be hard to come by. if using acetone or mek you will have to soak towels and let it sit for a while to soften up the enamel or it will evaporate too fast.
it won't be cheap im likely going to pick one up at NC Cat next week when im in town. I cant understand what has worn out in my starter. Im thinking the bendix lever is bent between the bendix and solenoid
My starter started acting up. It really acted and sounded like the old dodge starters on the 880's when the bendix started to fail. I inspected the flywheel its not cherry but not all that bad. Just a little wear so I ordered up a new starter drive. I found the ends of the pinion gear chewed...
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