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Question about a quality dash pad. Does anyone know of a good quality replacement dash pad for the CUCV? I have used the Brother's brand and have been disappointed. The OEM was a 1-piece tin underlayment and had the vinyl formed over the single piece. All the replacements I have used and seen...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/cucvrus-repair-projects.192437/page-17#lg=post-2384058&slide=7 Check this out. I have eliminated the overheated lighting fuse with an inline fuse. This power leg also services the brake lights so I added 2 inline fuses. Simple enough. The inline is quickest...

I have not rebuilt a wiring harness or fuse box. I have however cut out the over heated terminals and replaced that circuit with a weather resistant in line fuse holder. Good Luck.

I have installed over 100 flex-plates on CUCV's. New used and questionable. I never set one down and checked if it was flat. I looked at the teeth and made sure I seen no stress cracks in the steel inner surface. The unevenness will go away once it is secured in place by the 6 crank shaft bolts...

Are you sure that is not the brake lights that are on. I think that would make more sense. That is an adjustment of the brake light switch or it is missing the plate to shut them off and activate them. I think you can do a better job with the wiring for the license plate light. Them 3M scotch...

That plug is the fuel pump wiring that is used on the M1010 rear heater. Also used on the cargo bed heater that is part of the arctic kit. The green wire runs to the front right turn. I am not 100% sure but I think so. Good Luck.

Very NICE.

I just wanted to put this out there for you. I have a CUCV plow truck that has been pushing snow and dragging a spreader for the past 25 years. It is in rough condition and just had a $2000. transmission overhaul and keeps on plowing and spreading away. But the electrical system was a nightmare...

I don't think the HMMWV pan will correctly fit on a CUCV. I have transplanted a few HMMWV engines into CUCV's and always removed the oil pan and replaced it with a CUCV oil pan. I may be wrong but if it does fit I knew it didn't belong there and I didn't want to take a chance of the axle tagging...

If you really need one I have one an OEM used. Still many years of use. $50. plus shipping. Just putting that out there for you.

Things are getting tough all over.

After thinking this over I think the 3 bolt torque converters are shorter nuts welded in place. It would make sense because it would pull the flex plate down harder against the torte converter and cause the wobble. The 6 bolt torque converter would have nuts that are just a bit taller and seat...

I agree. If you have a 6 bolt flexplate you need a 6 bolt torque converter. I don't see how the 6 bolt flexplate would ever be seated properly on a 3 bolt torque converter. I wish you would have mentioned this earlier. I would say the starter is fine but I only ever seen 2 of them HD cast steel...

The new torque converter bolts have lock tight designed into the threads of the bolts. It is blue, yellow, or red. I use some blue lock tight if I am going to reuse the bolts again. Someone has put the incorrect torque converter in your M1009. I never encountered a diesel with a 3 bolt...

A tree limb works if the job has to be done. 4 friends and a 6 pack do wonders at times. Set a goal to have the bed ready to remove and when the helpers will be there. That day remove the bed. You will need a case to keep them hanging out till the job is done. But back in the day I bought lots...

Bolt Torque Chart | AFT Fasteners

I know every bolt has a torque tightness. But who really torques every bolt? I torque head bolts, fly wheel, and intake bolts and other important bolts. But most other bolts I tighten. After many years I know tight from loose or over tight. Anyone torquing every bolt is spending more time than I...

You don't need to remove the bed. Just get another guy and slide the bed back about 16'' inches. Excuse me but isn't that the same procedure to remove the cargo bed. I mean getting all 8 bolts and nuts out is the hardest part. If you go thru that trouble you may as well go the extra mile and...

I hate laying underneath getting rust in my eyes and ears). Safety googles and ear plugs every time I use a torch or am under a vehicle using an impact. Safety up front is a cheap alternative to injuries. Grinding the heads from a carriage bolt is 20 times harder then heating the nuts and...

I have had success with a standard propane torch and MAP gas. I have to make it work sometimes. And a good cordless Milwaukee impact changes the rules 10 fold. Heat is the secret. I can not always access the areas I work with Oxy/Ace tanks but the MAP gas works well. Less then $20. Do it right...