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The 24v bus is behind the the rear battery on the firewall, the 12v bus is next to the glow plug relay on the fire wall. Replacing the top alternator with a 12v unit would have been alot easier and no extra wires, fuses etc. and 160A of 12v power available. If the alternator failed they are...

They are a isolated ground, not common. Napa has a part number for them but people have reported here that is was not an isolated ground. Best option is to have a shop re build it. Another option...

Thanks, I just checked with him and he does have one.

The local Forestry asked me if I knew what other engine might swap in for a NHC 250? The cylinder sleeve corroded through and the rebuild cost was quite high. They have a special body on the truck and would rather swap in another engine. Thanks

+1 for the axle u-joint check, had this happen to me as well, not an easy one to figure out.

They will not work as a direct bolt in, you need the one I list at the beginning. I found mine on ebay for much cheaper.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?101135-M1010-DUVAC-Removal-Plan-quot-B-quot I use the M1010 quite often and the conversion is working very well. It is very simple and no hacking necessary.

The couple of mil surplus ones I have are VHF 132-160 Mhz. Have never seen a low band one for sale.

The AC relay is under the driver side litter/stretcher box. There is a cover over a bunch of relays, it should be a white one. Mine did the same thing, I took the relay apart and replaced the diode.

Still going strong, drove her to work today in the snow storm!

The TM states to disconnect the batteries if the set is not to be used, I don't recall the length of time. I also seem to recall an earlier post of capacitors on the fuel pumps going bad and draining the batteries.

M1010 stock except for starter relay mod, one glow cycle and starts right up, a bit cranky when below zero for a few days but always starts. I live off grid so no block heaters here.

Thanks, I'll order up the u joint and get at it. With all this snow and ice the old 882 is getting a work out.

I have a bad u joint on the front left on the 882. Never had one of these hubs apart and curious how much of a job it is to get the axle out?, and perhaps a basic step by step how it comes apart. Thanks

There are plates with captive nuts that go under the bed, the rack has bolts that go through the bottom mounting plate and secure to the captive plates. The power box is a common point to get power to the rack mounted equipment, like a big dc power strip if you will.

All 6.2 diesel came from the factory with 2 batteries. Too bad you converted to 12v, you gave up one of the best features of the cucv, the 24v starter uses half the amperage of a 12v and makes starting much easier. Most new starters are the no shim type.

Got a chance to get back to it today, found that a small linkage on the side of the pump had fallen off. It's held on with two screws, it fell down on top of the trailer deck luckily. Will report back once I get it put back on, of course it is in a tight spot and it's cold and snowing.

I have not been able to get back to the gen yet but he said he was clearing snow with the tractor while it was running and when he returned it was wide open, so it could have been minutes or 1/2 hour running wide open. Thanks for all the replies, I will get to it tomorrow and report back.

I'm pretty sure I recall seeing the spring but I will check it again. There is no control over the throttle it stays wide open. The throttle control is free and moves easily and like I said it happened while running at normal speed making power. I will see if he is interested in your engine...

My BIL was running his oo3A during the ice storm here in Maine, it was running fine then all of a sudden went wide open. I think when that happened it also blew a ring on the no 2 piston as it's blowing oil. Anyway all the linkage is free and it did it while running at normal speed so I assume...