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That's cheap but then he would also have to find a flywheel ($200+) plus corresponding clutch kit ($400+) and make it all work, with the existing transmission. Cheapest & easiest solution: ... stay with the good old "Multi". G.

No problem, just curious. Guessing that makes more than 0.2% difference. Maybe up to 5-10% ???

Running @ +/- 55mph with head rack + sides installed, vs. plain bed? Cargo area cover on- vs. -off? G.

These are the MF-piston/liner kits that were around some time ago (and it seems most everyone here got some... me included, and thanks to Kenny!): The NSN for this kit is 2815-00-134-0077, to be found in TM9-2815-210-34P (05/74), page 31. As the pictures show those have three ring grooves only...

They should come down a bit...:wink: GL has sold them by the hundreds and usually those things go cheap: http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/view?auctionId=9319353 G.

These would be good replacement tires: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?142587-Michelin-XZL-365-80R20-(14-5R20)-tires-for-Duece-M35a3-M35a2-(Bangor-PA) G.

No, it would hit the adapter ring for sure. Unless it was modified (=shortened 11mm), of course. But then you would have to use a bigger clutch PP, or adapt the stock one from the Deuce (drilling new holes, balancing,etc.). G.

Not correct. See the differences below... (I think I had posted this before, but where.... :???:) G.

At least forces are better distributed, that way. Also, due to steering geometry it takes more power to turn full right than left, all the way against the knuckle stop screw. G.

Not exactly.... read the thread linked in post #7. G.

Did you download it, with no issues? I get a warning message that this is malware!?:? G.

Yes, using a 14mm 6-point socket (not 12-point), that would be my first step, too. G.

Not the head bolts/nuts... re-read post #1. I remember well the last time I had to do this, with the motor installed... sure took some cursing... plus time and all the patience in the world to finally get that last nut off. The good thing was that the nuts found there were of some sort of...

Some are, most are not... Here is one example of a "combined" service -and parts- manual for the various MF-injection pumps: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2910-226-34.pdf Or this other book, about the Schwitzer turbo chargers...

OK, here's my offer: send me all the data you already found... and I will make that spreadsheet for you. Meanwhile I will digg-out some MF-history, hopefully something that hasn't been posted yet. G.

Yes, email them to me and I can/will post them where you want. G.

Sure. Just for ideas: made mine using a 7/8" socket, cut in two, plus some MF "left over" parts... Tested OK to 175 ft.lb and doesn't need any torque value conversion...:wink: G.

You have that special tool already, called "cylinder head wrench" (to remove and torque down the nuts holding the heads on the driver's side)... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?46818-Check-out-my-new-tool! http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?4962-Cylinder-head-wrench G.

...or the tire's sidewall, if you had the 15x8" wheels with 4+ inches of backspace. In that case better go with only 3 inches of BS, not 4". G.

Your correct bolt pattern is 6x5.5" (= 6 lugs/studs placed on a 5.50" diameter). For that size tires I would go with 15x10"-wheels with a 3.75" backspace, max. 4.0". G.