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Tom, actually when I first posted that chart, that was used to list the (commercial)bearing numbers, only. But you are right; in order to avoid costly confusions we better have a chart that covers both model transmission gears - and their corresponding part numbers. So I just inserted those 4...

Ask Tom (m35-tom), he might have a couple to spare. G.

I recommend reading this thread... Related to it: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?135217-Oil-seal-mod-for-3053-input-shaft G.

Yes, it's a long list, and hopefully there were as many sources...

Here's the image in question, with the sleeve position corrected- for the ones who had saved that chart for the bearing numbers. G.

For that tool you'd need to specify 10 splines on 1-1/2" - with a 3/4" pilot diameter. If you had access to a lathe you can easily make your own tool, by using a short piece of 1-1/4" round bar (below) The splines are not necessary, really. G.

That's the sleeve for 5th gear. And you are correct: that image is wrong; it needs to be flipped, the flanged side goes to the back of transmission. Yes, the pin's head comes to rest in between two splines. G.

What you have there are the most common (early style) clutch parts to be found behind most every Deuce multifuel engine. It's a 4-finger pressure plate and the (metallic)5-pad clutch disc. I just don't see that "little wear" anywhere... more like the opposite! So do yourself a favor and have...

12.00R20 is a conventional, tube type (non-MPT) tire size. The approved rim width goes from 8.0 up to 9.0 inches; with 8.50" being preferred. The stock budd wheels should work fine. G.

:ditto: Now, after re-reading post#1 (again): It's really hard to believe that just re-adjusting the band brake fixed the original problem.:???: "Stopped pulling" means to me that the cable & drum and thus the input shaft, came to a halt. So if the winch drum(clutch) remained engaged all the...

Edited post #9, as you wish... :smile:

TM9-2320-289-34P, Fig.92

If you can't get to see the raised casting number on the flywheel housing then post some pics of the valve covers, at least. Some of us may know which engine is which. G.

This is not a metric size; #12-28 is the same as 7/32"-28. See them here... G.

Not all... I bought 4 of these LDS427-2, TEAD-rebuilt engines and all rebuild tags indicating '89. Supposedly they all where ran-in and dyno-tested, to put out 150 Hp @ 2600 rpm. But I can tell that not all of them had the same power. The first one I put in one of my M35 was about as gutless as...

You did the right thing! The question is not if the old style gaskets will start leaking, but when - or how soon...! So, some day you would have had to change them anyway. And believe me, it is a much easier- and cleaner job to do this with the engine in the crate, than installed, after some...

I was curious about this myself so I looked up the TMs and found that there actually are at least three different models/version/part numbers for these oil "squirters": According to TM 9-2815-210-34P of May'74 it is only the Code A engines (LDS 465-2) that take the "double squirters"...

You are right, and it was R, not 5th that came to hit the dash. (....I'm forgetting such details, it's been 20 years now... :doh:) But still, the reduced lever-to-dash clearance was the reason for the change, I guess. G.

This... G.

Correct, but the question still remains: why that change? It's been many years ago but I remember well that when I converted my first M35 Reo, from very shy Gold Comet- to not-so-shy Multifuel- power, the transmissions were also swapped but the shift lever remained the same, because that one...