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Those came out of 5-tons, obviously. Good thing is they can easily be "converted" to be used in a Deuce. (See this thread...) And you got at least one PS-pump, there! That part alone is worth almost what you paid, if its still good and works. I'd say excellent deal![thumbzup] Edit: I see...

This thread may answer your question: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?94195-Rear-Hub-Removed-A-Few-Questions (post #1 - 13) G.

... or wait until someone went out and actually measured one...:wink: : 1"-14 TPI If you search for SPINDLE AXLE NUT RETAINER 12313042 (one of the popular E-sites) there is at least one... G.

For everyone having/wanting to do work on his 10.000lb-Garwood winch: check out this old TM9-1819AC 5-of-6, Chapter 18. It's 20 pages of good text and excellent illustrations; much better then any of the newer books... This winch is the same for the G749 series (early Deuces) as for the later...

It's hard to believe something is actually broken, since this winch was rebuilt and obviously has not seen any use after that... I say drain the pass.side oil, remove the winch as a whole; put it on its side (drive housing down) and pull the clutch side end housing. That will sure end all...

15 times per 1 drum rotation? No, that would be the drum lock pin not being fully retracted. Actually it's 12 holes in the drum side flange. And no, there are no adjustments provided to the shift mechanism. To refresh a bit our memory - this is how it looks like, in there... (2nd pair of pics)...

It may be as simple as the MC-piston not fully returning? Read this post... and a few more, down to the end of that thread. G.

First question remains: does the drive shaft - and so the winch input (worm)shaft, still turn - under load, when the grinding occurs? If the brass ring gear still is in one piece (plus ALL teeth are there) AND you actually can see it turning while the drum already came to a (grinding)halt, it...

I'm also inclined to think that something inside the PTO isn't right. Or maybe the woodruff key sheared on the output flange? We still need to know if the drive shaft stopped turning when the grinding occurred. Two things could be excluded as possible causes, IMHO: 1) The OP already said...

See this post... You are correct: when the engine runs and clutch is released/engaged there are gears and shafts spinning and splashing oil around, inside the PTO, too. On the other hand the max. (static) oil level is about 1/2" below the underside of that output shaft, which explains why it...

Welcome to Steelsoldiers! These trucks? I suppose you mean M35 and variants. G.

Yes, the end plate (retainer) needs to come off since the seal is removed/ installed from the inside. You may want to drain the oil first. Some output shafts have a yoke to connect the driveshaft but most use a flange. In either case they are secured via woodruff key and Allen set-screw. They...

Model # Part Number Cust Part # Engine(s) Application(s) DB2831-5209 5209 12555697 6.5 L NA Military Heavy Duty (1.2 cSt), HMMWV G.

That was my idea too... until I actually measured the bore depth: total = little over 3/8", cylindrical (inner) portion = 5/16", rest is chamfered. Which means there is no practical way to fit a second seal in there. G.

http://www.convertunits.com/from/inch+of+mercury/to/pounds+per+square+inch G.

Good thing is that this retainer could easily be reproduced by anyone knowing how to use a lathe and a caliper.... BTW: Great books! Would love to see them scanned/digitized and uploaded to our library. Anyone...?? G.

Be aware that most of the parts-TM's will show that retainer with the number 8738031. Do not order that part since it will NOT work with your axle shaft! The one you need is the early style seal retainer, ORDNANCE PART NO. 7521788 and MFR'S PART NO. TD-A1244U541; RC-855D1; SD-913847 G.

Yes, that trust-washer goes on the retainer, only. Otherwise there is nothing else that would keep it centered. That "knick" may not be too relevant; as long as you can stick the trust-washer on it should be OK. (Beveled side goes towards the diff.) G.

For some reason your axle shaft is now binding, between spindle and seal retainer. Are you sure the retainer got seated all the way back in, again? And that it wasn't distorted after all those initial removal efforts? Also, where is the trust-washer now, the one that goes on that (old style)...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?73202-Help-Brakes-Stuck-on!&p=905047&viewfull=1#post905047 http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?31522-Deuce-brakes-LOCKED-UP&p=337205&viewfull=1#post337205 G.