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I assumed pic#1 that shows what looks to be a loop back connector was your gen set.

Since it requires a "loopback plug" I suspect removing it isn't a simple as just removing all the wiring. My hunch is that some of the meters, which are current meters, are hooked in series with the remote meters or need the loopback plug installed for the internal current meters to operate...

OK, units are now complete and ready for shipment. See link in signature for classifieds listing to order.

I too made a electric pump system for pulling diesel out of my 55 gal drums. I put a fuel filter/water separator in line to catch any debris or water. Also put 1/4 valves on the inlet and outlet ports to prevent it from back flushing the filter when draining the pickup tube back into the drum...

An alternative would be to use a desiccant breather to help keep moisture from getting into a drum.

Good work! Guyfang is right. Never assume it's wired correctly.

I suspect earlier sets like mine had the fuse but not the CB on the side of the GFCI. Yours has the CB on the side of the GFCI so no in-line fuse is needed. Yes - that's the CB to reset for the convenience outlet. It's possible your set isn't producing power at all.... I'd suggest downloading...

Does the generators AC voltmeter indicate either 120 volts or 240 volts when it's running? My 1994 802 has an in-line fuse instead of the breaker. On mine the fuse to the left of the leftmost relay zip tied to the top of the large white wire bundle.

Does the current transformer have the correct number of loops thru each coil? What is the AC voltage across each of the burden resistors at 10 KW? From my tests I believe the voltage across them should be ~ 5.6 V at 100% load.

Latest PCB's just received. Populated one and tested it in one of my 831's. Couple of firmware tweeks to do to perfect performace, but looking good!

I just repaired a Duromax 8K gas unit. - AC power switch was melted and fused. AC breaker failed to trip - Choke linkage had fallen apart - Fuel gauge leaking gas I'd suggest being careful not to push a Duromax near it's current limit.

Kinda... It's covered in the -10 TM Frequency Adjust Control Adjusting the frequency is actually adjusting the engine RPM to ~1800 RPM

Congrats! Be sure to adjust the frequency output. The video showed it was around 56 Hz.

According to TB 9-6115-641-13 it's... nsn: 6115-01-476-8973

S1 wiring details..

It is.

Yes - leave the pre-installed jumper on the new switch. You just need to hook the wires back up to the respective terminals and move the diode assembly from the old switch to the new switch. No additional jumpers are required. I have that exact switch in my spares kit.

BobbyT, The latest version is in production at the PCB house now. Planning on being able to ship units in a week or two. BTW - Nice Jeep! I have a YJ on Tons with 43" SX stickies, Love wheeling it!

Another mod you may want to do is to add lighting to the three gauges with the red plastic plugs in them. See... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?152783-MEP-802A-803A-gauge-lighting&highlight=light

Just measured mine. Look like 20 gauge AL.