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So of the two wires coming of the winch solenoid, one goes back to the motor? And the other goes up to the controller. But, I don't see a plug for the other wire anywhere else on the winch...

Instead of shooting them... how about sharing the parts.... That slantback C pillar looks awfully appealing... and its gone

If anyone is annoyed at the amount the x doors vibrate, shake, and create noise, boy do I have a solution for you. My Backstory: So when I first got my humvee, I took it off-roading after a couple of weeks of getting things in order. It was very fun, but the main downside was the sheer noise...

Two Questions: -Any tips to get the lower A frame bolt out and turned around? -There are two wire leads coming off the winch solenoid itself. In the diagrams I have it only shows one wire coming from the circuit breaker, which comes from the winch controller plug. Where is the other wire and...

I have two, attached below. They are the black canvas ones that were all over a couple months ago. There are also green leather ones that I have seen installed.

I'll just give my two cents, which is mostly good. First thing, put in some nice MRAP seats. They make a lot of difference. I took mine on 500 mile trip in one day and my mrap seats were a major plus, comfortable all 10 hours of the drive. Try to seal things... fail... try again... fail some...

I would accept that, only my gauge was working perfectly for almost a year now and now it's decided to go crazy on me.

Any tests I can do to find out?

No kiddin... is it the gauge or the sender?

So today I was driving home with between 1/4 and 1/2 a tank left, then a minute later I look back and see it has dropped to below a 1/4 tank (this was all on a flat road with no acceleration/stopping). I thought this was weird so I went to a gas station to top it off. Filled it up, 15 gallons...

Anybody know where to get a full pinout of body the a2 body harness and engine harness? There's a couple documents with the numbered wire leads and such but limited to connections regarding the 4l80.

I don't think so, I'll check tomorrow. Would the military put those in? And for what reason?

Just wanted to make sure that the camber on my front wheels was normal, any thoughts to why it looks like it has a more-than-normal load on it? (Had my vehicle weighed, curb weight is 5800lbs, I have the supp door armor and aluminum armored grill)

Do you have any pictures of your setup? The cable on that TPS looks pretty long, did you make any modifications to the it?

Yeah I can find the male connectors, which are on the military harness, but since I can't cut the connector off the 6.5 TPS, I need a female connector. Have you see one?

seems like the cheapest option... two questions. I can't seem to find the proper mating connector for the military harness connector. Its a 3 pin weather pack connector but it has a specific plug outline that fits the 6.5 tps. Did you have to deal with this...

I'm guessing that type of TPS isn't exactly a plug and play deal? How did you wire it into the harness?

You're talking about the DB2831-5149 12550433, right? It says 170 HP... What sort of mileage decrease happens with that pump, or is it more efficient than the 6.2 DB2829 pumps? Just checked my pump, I have the DB2829 4879.

I WAS under the impression that a AIRTEX 5S5080 or a BWD EC3003 would fit a 6.2l IP but all the sites that I am going to are saying its only for the 6.5l. What is the truth here? and if its not for the 6.2l, are there ANY TPS's that fits the IP on a 6.2l?

I'm looking for a trailer in the $300-800 range, I live in seattle so I'm looking for something that I can drive to pick up. I'd be using it to transport a s250 shelter and I am looking for something that has everything intact and working.