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And if the old style gaskets were on it, that is a very common issue. There is absolutely zero seal around any fluid passages on the old style gaskets. Coolant will pizz out of the groove that exits under the exh. port. Put new style gaskets on it and drive it. If the heads are cracked between...

Try WeeBee webbing. They have the webbing, the ends can be removed from you old ones and re crimped onto the new webbing.

Did you check warp? If there is no warpage, which is unlikely to be out of spec UNLESS it has been run hot, no need to surface heads.

Don't know. I am unsure of the type of ring that the MF uses. Ring designs have changed over the years as technology has advanced. Older engines, most all of them, had issued with slobber, wet stacking, passing oil past rings and guides when operated in a low/no load condition due to ring...

Yeah, it is for the M49 ring and pintle though. I think it has a 30/50 cradle too

First, blocking the radiator during warm up...before stat opens....kinda does nothing. Remember, these systems have two circuits, block loop and cooling loop. When the stat is closed, coolant is shunted back into the block via the block loop, the seal in the thermostat housing prevents coolant...

I agree with the two above posts, BUT, no low fuel pressure can cause the same type of issue. The lack of "lurching" when put into gear with the drive train disconnected is only because there is no load on the engine/trans. My gut says a trans issue. You need to check the low pressure...

No numbers stamped on the block by Cummins, that's how they did things on midrange engines. You could get a block and head s/n and call Cummins to get the ESN if data plated were lost on them, that's the only way to find it out. Well, maybe 1 other way, IF the OEM did their job properly, the ESN...

Those studs aren't a break away type. IIRC, they are 12.9 grade. There are a mess of different mounts for the compressor. most all are different from one another. Shoot me an ESN and I can see if the engine was built with the Bendix compressor and get support p/n's. If the engine was shipped w/o...

Just be mindful of the piston cooling nozzles, They are some sort of plastic and can break easily if they are hit with a hard object. The crank comes out if one breaks. The cracks that happen are just between liners at the deck only. It has been a bit, I don't remember if the early C had tabs...

Just an idea, you might want to get some mud flaps on that before you start out. The PO has removed the original ones at the front and rear. That removal MIGHT get you a ticket. Also, depending on the state, you might need a non commercial type of DL, so no flaps COULD be a reason to pull you...

^^I agree.

They will fit and work, but not as well as the ones made for small cam. IIRC, spool valves and lash screws are different, and, IIRC, BCIII was a dual x-head model, meaning the master piston pushed on the x-head with 2 feet, opened both exh valves, and the SC brakes used a pin type actuation...

The brakes from the 444 will not fit/work on the NHC or the BCII.

My Dad and Uncle had old GMC trucks, they were pole sitting trucks from GTE, ATT, whoever the phone companies were at the time, I believe they wer 1963 an 65 years. Both had micro locks on them. They would hold steady on hills while pulling engines/components from off road machinery, sometimes...

I'll be retired before you finish this! 67 days man, hurry up.....

I've seen that alot on the earlier engines with the bottle stopper type of dipstick even w/o high cc pressure. What I have found to fix it is to buy 2 of the barrel grommets for the dipstick. Install 1 whole one and use a razor blade to half the other grommet, put that on the lower half of the...

If I remember, pedal pressure is also read. Driving you would see the brake line pressure when you apply them and for parking you depress the pedal and then flip the lever. The applied pressure stays in the line after you release the pedal and to release, just flip the lever the other way

The cracks between the liners are naked eye visible when they happen. You can wipe the block off good, spray rust penetrant on the deck, let it sit a bit, wipe and use the ball end of a ball peen and lightly tap the block if the liners are out and the crack will either appear or "spit" the...

Line locks, https://www.mico.com/products/brake-actuation/brake-locks/lever-lock