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Correct on the different letters, but the number is always 308. NTN and NSK, both use BL308 in their catalogs. That bearing shown in post #24 is a high-load bearing. G.

Maybe, 0.023" seems a bit too much. I just measured a NIB retainer: 1.504", where the thread is. I got that retainer from m-35tom; he might have some more? The correct bearing number is BL308ZNR, (90x40x23). Its a high load bearing and has 11 balls, NOT just 8. See this old thread...

1. NO 2. YES, remove. It's only 4 more bolts/nuts. 3. Remove the top cover before pulling the transmission. G.

I'd say, buy that truck if its a good deal, and if you are not afraid of doing some wrenching, yourself. For a non-winch to W/W- conversion there is more than enough info and pics posted here; plus many "experts" too, who would be glad to guide you, step-by-step. G.

Well, yes: too hot to keep my hand on it for long - but that is after hours at red line (-> 2600 eng. rpm), in our summer time. And I actually had the "rear" bearing in mind... That is the larger one, next to the pinion, which gets all the load. G.

Same here. Had to re-adjust preload there, more than once, while the bearing still looked OK. I think this happens more often when the cup fits too loose in its bore, allowing it to rotate and slowly "eating" its way into the retainer. Re-installing the same cup with some Loctite 620 would...

I think it is doable. Would like to know some basic dimensions, though. G.

To that I would comment that in order to keep our Deuces up-and-running it is much easier to find and adapt a different, more recent engine/transmission, than to find a replacement (aftermarket) T-Case that fits well... G.

Don't forget this other thread: "Shelter to Camper Conversion", made (by Jürgen) in Germany. I had the chance to check it out, personally: SEHR GUT! G.

If... it was the early style, then the seal retainer needs to be modified; not the thrust washer. Or try to find the correct seal retainers for the U-joint axle shafts. G.

So you had the old style 4+1 ball/claw style shafts and then replaced with U-joint-style shafts? If so then Steve nailed it: post #12 explains your problem. This (old)post shows some pictures for comparison, and gives you a possible solution, too... G.

Short answer: YES Work and cost will depend of course of what you want it to do: If you mean just manually shifting the T-136-21 Sprag-TC (with the stock 0.93:1.00 front/rear ratio) that would be fairly simple (and cheap) to achieve. But then you better know well how that T-case works, and...

Haha, very true... I sure had some fun too when I found that term on page 305 in TM 9-2815-204-35 (1964) It's an old- but good book, BTW. G.

Done it 2x, but for a M35 only (see it here...) Not so sure if after all necessary reinforcements this route would still be cheaper than using a commercial scissor set-up (like nicely shown here by The Buggyman, or by Bjmca in this thread) G.

150 pound feet. G.

I have seen it done, but not with 5-ton springs (those are 3" wide). G.

Congrats and good luck! G.

If- and after been driven for a good while on the highway, an overfilled engine can do exactly as described, even if that seal was still OK. And once the oil level was corrected, leaking may stop completely. (learned that lesson, many years ago...!) G.

Pics with dimensions of a M116A3 bed are posted here... G.

Buy two good ones and put them on my account! G.