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Safe travels! (Don't drive if tired...!) G.

Glad you are enjoying your truck. I just hope it's clear that it wasn't exactly you, the end-user MV-enthusiast/ hobbyist I was referring to, with that remark... Someone decided to buy that refurbished, CTIS/epoxy-"upgraded" rear axle long before you.... ;-) G.

It's the "genius" who decided to buy this deal...1000's of these, actually(!), who probably didn't have a clue of what he was getting for the money... G.

Once you have it on correctly you will see... ... among other things, that an old/used #3994-cone (-race) makes a good seal-installer tool, but only after some modification: turning it on the lathe to remove about 1 mm where it rests against the spindle's shoulder. G.

The block has no hole in the front area - it's 3 holes only: the one to the rear and one pair (said passage), in the center. G.

Yes, the connection is there: in the center of block there are two holes, about 1-1/4" apart - for one short (oil)passage. G.

In fact! 20-bolt, steel, same as regular FMTV wheels! Interesting, those must be the exception of the rule then... learned something today. This leaves me wondering actually: why would they come beveled on the inner side too, when FMTV's; Caiman's etc. they all use their wheels dished-in...

OK, checked that thread... Yes, aluminum wheels are a different story. If that's what the OP got, I would rather sell them and get the steel wheels. G.

All the FMTV wheels that I have seen so far come beveled on both faces, so this is odd. First of all let's make sure the bolt pattern is correct: FMTV's are all 10-on-11.25", same as M939 series; while MRAP's have a 10-on-13.2 bolt pattern. 2nd, if the wheels in question had to be used -...

Well, if any of the front tires (after warmed up) still had a run-out of 3/8" or more I would better NOT run them on the steer axle - shaved or not! G.

Before any cutting/shaving experiments... Have you checked (radial) run-out immediately after say a 20 mile-trip, when the tire is still warm? How much are we talking - more than 1/4"? Have you checked tire/wheel balance? I bet there is big part of the problem - and that can be solved. G.

A bad front bearing, and then only roaring when shifting between 1st and 2nd, while turning....??:? G.

:ditto: Can you try to describe that "roar" better? Could it also be like gears barely grinding? Is it a winch truck? G.

For normal, "civilian" use... I would stay with just the beadlocks. The runflats make the whole assembly much heavier, unnecessarily. G.

... And all the info for repairing and calibrating that IP can be found in our own library: TM 9-2815-237-34, Section 2-32. G.

Go to TM 9-2910-226-34, table 3-4: Calibration of LDT-465-1C. For full load @ 2600 rpm it shows 37-34 cc (cm³)/500 strokes. That is 74-68 mm³ per each stroke. G.

Thanks Joaquín. See additional drawing; I think that answers your question. Obviously front- and rear output shafts are on the same axis. G.

The basic dimensions of the Deuce T-Case can be seen here... G.

Eight...??? Got any pics? G.

All you need to know about that PS-pump, here... G.