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the fuel pump and supply voltage is 24 volts the solenoids are 24 volts but the igniter is 12 volts the voltage is dropped through the big resister. I at one time would convert them to work on 12 volts, but with parts being expensive, and fuel being so expensive in the bush. I'm happy to wait...

I wouldn't know be advised that I paid 7 k for an lmtv that I drove away from the gov plannet yard. its worth what you are willing to pay for it but check with cummins and see what a pt pump for a ntc 250 costs and deduct that amount from what you had budgeted for buying one of these cool trucks .

you don't need et to check out a 3126 you can do it with a prolink and cartage you can buy inexpensively off e-bay. that would be the way to go to retrieve codes, likely your total cost would be the same as having a cat tech plug in with e-t. there are no trim codes to put in when replacing...

start with a major brake adjustment, pumping the brakes is an indication of extreme clearance in side the drums. As some one else mentioned, if you have to do a major adjustment you should also look at lining thickness, you never know how many times in the past this has been done. drums are...

the cummins pt pump is no fun to put in but it can be done with a bit of swearing I have only seen 1 fail I would look closer at the supply lines and stand pipe in the tank first. I have seen ulsd deteriorate older fuel hoses and cause them to collapse inside

7and 8 are playing king of the hill and showing off my s&s hat

I don't normally have time or personnel to take pics but here are some from this summer first is the truck in seattle the fifth is the truck arriving on the barge. second is my kid fishing with his catch 3 and 4 are a recent job replacing an idler on a hydraulic excavator and 6 is working on...

if it is building too much pressure the problem is in the governor or air drier which is where your signal comes from usually it is a fault with the governor. they ar cheap and available at all napa stores

letting your buddy tell you a 20,000 pound truck can get back to where he blew the motor in his side by side

picture of my lmtv upon arrival in Nome

hope the joyriders didn't get it stuck in the mud it took an ex 160 to get mine out and that was barely enough hoe to get it out

its been quite a while since I worked on those old arctic heaters the coolant heater was disconnected because of reliability issues the 10530 should work fine as long as the atomizer and glass rod are good. I will do some looking and see where the fuel pump gets its electrical signal bit I think...

I think I had him beat mine went from seattle to western Alaska in Nome of course mine had to hitchn a ride on a boat as the Iditarod trail wasn't an option

hp will be directly related to your fuel economy, the c series is actually a little larger displacement than the cat, a b series would get you better economy but a whole lot less torque. unless you tuned it for power which would shorten engine life and cost you mpg again. the cats can be de...

I'm a big fan of the c series so don't get me wrong but I cant imagine why one would replace a mechanical cat with one especially if the engine is right below the operator them things are loud. an 8.3 in adduce would be real cool but you would likely break stuff, and the b series fits better.

that's not to bad of a deal

overall the lmtv rides pretty good for the kind of truck it is, I use mine daily on gravel and un improved roads out here in western Alaska and until I do some suspendsion mods to my 1 ton dodge I'm in no rush to go back to it.

go to your napa dealer ask to look for jack nuts used for mirror mounting you will see what they look like likely your only option will be grind the bolt head off than grind out the jack nut and replace it with a new one

cool idea I have the bag in a box behind the seat now I wished I hadn't ditched it

this is in normal its going to be in full fuel until the governor kicks in and drops it back to idle