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Amateur sleuthing is fun! A cursory search of tandem axle box trucks suggests that the box in the picture looks much more like the box on a M109/M135 truck. The two separated cutouts for the tandem axle wheels are quite characteristic. Most eastern bloc vehicles, such as Praga, Tatra, Ural, ZIL...

I stared at her all week. She is parked in the yard with a defective accessory switch and has no power to the starter. New switch is on the way. She also has a slight front axle seal leak after being parked for the winter, but I will drive her a bit and see if that goes away. Well, once all the...

Result from me thinking out loud. Disregard if you do not find it useful. So you KNOW that - the HH is correctly timed to the pump and - the pump is correctly timed to the crank (not 180 degreees out). You ASSUME that the rebuilt IP is in fact serviceable....fuel passages not clogged with...

I straight-edged the thoroughly cleaned deck and replaced both heads with OEM heads, used new style gasket. Result: it oozes here and there. Re-torqued heads. Result: It still oozes here and there. I could get really angry about this - but since it starts as soon as you think about touching the...

That is the kind of drive-in movie experience I'd enjoy!

I put the corner poles on to have a clear visual of the corners of my w/w truck. The issue is not distance to the font; it is distance to the bumper corners, especially when maneuvering in tight spaces. The bumper is so far forward that it will hook into, rather than just bump, stuff that you...

The first choice should probably be an identical pump. You are looking for an AMBAC PSB6A pump, NSN 2910-00-908-6320 for the LD/LDT 465 multifuel. You can also use the pump for the LDS engine. These are not difficult to find; try a well known auction site, for example. Also call a well-stocked...

I would think that, as long as you can clamp the cable sheath properly, the length of the cable setup is not really relevant. The lever moves the cable a certain amount - regardless of how long cable and sheath are in total. As you said - I would try and route it more "generously" and see if...

Put the prybar into whichever universal joint of the shaft is more convenient. Removal of injectors not required (but, obviously, makes rolling over the engine easier, if so inclined). Also...before I pry I always "bump" the starter to get the engine close to where I want it and only "fine tune"...

What is the NAPA number for the one with the correct cup expanders? I looked in the cross-reference but it doesnt specify. I know that there are the "cheap" ones that start to leak after a while.

You need to take pictures of your work and post them here. You can take the pictures in Spanish, we will be fine :-)

I learned (on this forum) that it is often simpler to just make your own, correct gaskets. Here is an article: https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hsx/2010/04/Gasket-Making-101/3012301.html You have the coolant manifolds to make the gaskets...I warn you, you might be shocked about how simple this...

There are still OEM complete heads available...might be a cost-effective solution. TMJ Murray, I think.

I do not know if the bolts can back out sufficiently for the flywheel to spin freely without the bolts falling out...maybe not enough clearance in the housing for them to come all the way out. What else can make the flywheel spin freely? Broken crank?

Did you check that on the starter side? Do you actually see the flywheel move while the engine doesn't turn over? If that is indeed true, open the inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing....the flywheel bolts should fall out.... The flywheel ring is heat shrunk onto the flywheel, so...

In a pinch, you can McGyver an alignment tool from a 1/2inch extension and two sockets (a deep socket and a regular one) of the appropriate sizes (you can determine the sizes easily by inserting the sockets and extension into pressure plate/flywheel), as well as electrical tape to fine-tune the...

Also, the thermostat seal is a great one to learn how to make a gasket yourself. The cast housing has sharp edges, making it easy to take a sheet of gasket material, laying it over and gently hammering along the edges to "cut" the shape out. Any thicker gasket material will do. You can hammer...

Wow, I should have known that there was a proper diagram! My reaction to the question was "the soft top just fits down the gap and I have a hard time getting my hand in to deal with the bungee cord, so it is a small gap".

**daydreaming about driving a Deuce that makes 500 hp **

This has been discussed many times. There is no "wrong" place for a temperature probe in the manifold, but you need to know what you are measuring. In his case, he is measuring the pre-turbo exhaust temp of the rear three cylinders. I'd add a second probe in the same location on the front and...