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Whenever there is enough heat to melt a terminal, suspect a high ohm connection, that's how the heat is produced; high resistance, high voltage drop, high amperage = lots of heat. It reads like your jumper cable between the batteries had a bad crimp. The volt meter (Batt/Gen gauge) needs...

Explain "die", there is a lot that can be done with the IP still on the engine...

About the "triangular" hub features, according to the TM, they are tie points, used for anchoring the vehicle to a deck typically. The 8x8 shown below has them on all wheels. These trucks were almost all shipped to Germany and may have had them for transport reasons, although they are also shown...

Looks like the Racor primary fuel filter on the HEMTT ...sideways mounting is odd. Would make a mess changing element...

Use 2/0 cable. "welding" cable is good because of the fine strands making it flexible. Use correct lugs for fine strand cable.

FWIW, from the PS magazine section.

There is an article in MVM by yours truly; "How to safely drive downhill" , Issue #108, April 2005. I experimented a little with engine braking at the time and ended up installing an exhaust brake on the deuce...

Brushed off the excess sand yesterday and put another coat of primer on. Result in image below. A layer of OD is next. Thank you all for your suggestions!

Bob, your holders are a little different, they can be installed next to each other. These are the illustrations from the TM (no bracket shown for dual 12-volt setup).

No, it will prime itself fast enough.

How much "articulation" can you still get without rubbing the bed etc?

The original setup uses a single 4HN 24-volt battery and the "hold down" bracket is made for it. Found two 12-volt batts and the keeper is perfect for one, but it looks like two would see some interference in the center. I'm just using some heavy duty ties for now and will have to fab a dual...

So, how do you do your non skid walk-on surfaces? Figure it is a 3-step procedure and primed and sprinkled it with sand first. Will remove loose sand and prime again before finally painting it.

Well done Duncan! How important would you say that the looking diffs are, how bad does it get on the course without them? Looks great! (4km/l =9.3 mpg)

It is the ferrule type. Image below shows a cross section of one. Clean and tighten is about all you can do short of replacing the line.

Is it the 60 amp alternator (built-in regulator) or the 25 amp job with the regulator on the firewall, the black/od finned box? The "small" wires shouldn't be involved here.

The era of aluminum MVs...Gama Goat, M113, Mover (m656)... The tires look good for 1/2 century.

Glad you got it under control! My very first MV was a Navy International Loadstar (with the HIAB) and one time driving it, there were suddenly no brakes what so ever. I was going downhill, but managed to use someones driveway as a "runaway" ramp. We found one of the hydraulic brake lines rusted...

This image really goes well with your post.

This is the dash light bulb info I posted. The brighter bulb has not caused me any problems yet, but will keep an eye on it. I might add that the idea is to get the bulb filament more in line with the "windows" on the instruments. They are brighter and can be operated in the "dim" (=lower...