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I forgot about the relief...I know you said you don't want to add electrics, but a horton/kysor air/electric system is a very easy and reliable set up and it can be set up as a failsafe so if there is an electrical failure, the fan engages.

Isn't the idea of adding a fan switch to be able to control the fan when you want to instead of relying on the auto switch? All the ball valves and monkey motion isn't needed. Ever heard of KISS. What you want to do can be done with 2 small check valves, a tee, an air shift axle switch and maybe...

Pretty much.

Idling a new rebuild will glaze liners resulting in non seated rings. The engine will pump oil. Wet stacking is different. That would be unburnt fuel.

Starting an engine with fuel lines off of an injector is NOT a good idea. Ever see what high pressure fuel does to soft tissue? Just pull the head with the injector in the bore. Maybe it won't come out for a reason, like the nozzle all mushroomed over.

Start it and see if you have any leaks, noises, screw ups on assembly. Idling is what kills a new engine. How far is it to the dyno? If it were in my hands, run 1 gear down, 50-60 hp at say 18-2000 rpm til the stat opens, put a little bit more power on it, 75-80 hp and run there for 5 min...

6 hrs!!?? Who told you that? The rings will be seated in 45 min. If you used new style gaskets...like FelPro, Mr Gasket, etc, with the fire ring crimped to the gasket, no retorque is needed. I run the dyno every day so, yes I know what I am talking about

Just needs to be plumbed into a pressure and a port less than the pressure side. The upper port where the cooler was hooked to for pressure and the lower port for return will work. Coolant flow is as follows, inlet from rad to w/p, to oil cooler cavity, to upper water manifold, to the head...

Easier to pull the cam. There is a puller, but it requires pulling the cam out 4 inches to get the puller behind it, kinda a waste of time, and you need to heat the gear and be quick reinstalling, it will stick easily. The pump gear is not timed, but the pump is.Make sure you TDC the engine and...

And remember, leaks always end up on the ground. If it continues, look higher.

$495 plus shipping. Turn around will vary due to shipping, shop time is about 2 days, depending on work load.

If there is debris in that screen filter, there could be other issues. the filter before the pump is a smaller micron rating, so, if there are chunks of something that is not mold/moss/algae, you need to look at the pump. That screen is there so IF the pump comes apart, pieces parts don't make...

MERDC Scroll down to the M113 http://www.amm34.com/p/132/doc-usa-camouflage-us-merdc

fify

Take the muffler off. A turbocharger is considered an exhaust muffling device, at least here in Ca. Your truck will not sound like that though. And, There is no other vehicle that sounds like a deuce with a C on it :mrgreen:

That is the sound from the intake side. Probably has a K&N and an open air box. And most importantly, why. You will go deaf listening to that on a daily basis or on a long trip.

Here is one from an old post, http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?7834-Locking-gas-cap-on-Deuce&highlight=

That is correct. No compression testing in anything above the midrange engines. I don't even recall if it is done on any B,C or L series beyond 1998 with the exception of some off road engines, for Cummins anywho. QSOL, https://qsol2.cummins.com/info/index.html

Leak down testing is good for spark fired but as far as I know there is no leak down for compression fired engines

Sure they do, copied from QSOL 014-012 Engine Compression Table of Contents Measure Measure TOC It is very time-consuming and expensive to begin removing internal engine components to diagnose failures. A compression gauge, Part Number 3164627, and adapter, Part...