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Well..... how'd it go? You guys get wind? I hate wind! A couple of us have a trip planned in 2 weeks out near 29 palms. Hopefully no W____!

Hmmm, looks like a maybe for me. A day or overnite?

Nope. Use a die on a new bolt. It removes material. Chasers should be used to clean up existing threads

Watch the height of the studs you are reinstalling. Make sure they are at the same height as the ones still in the block. Any lower and you won't have enough threads to put nuts/ washers back on. No, the studs on the multifuel don't need to be replaced after each use. Old school technology here.

Does the pump look like the one in the above post or does it have a big housing on top of it with a second lever or shaft out the side at the rear? Like this....

Monrovia...small world!

Yes, it will hit. This is how I did my junk. The pins for the feet pull against the frame and I used a chain with a turnbuckle through the pintle eye to pull it toward the bed rail.

Up around the front lifting eye, along the drivers side of the valve cover mounted to the brackets on the v/c studs and to the firewall

Yup, done it a few times. Not that difficult. Wedge yourself up between the rear driveshaft and the back of the t-case on the passenger side. Comes right out!

Alt/Gen Manual

I did. I was buddies with Al Gore and he turned me onto a prototype. I think it was better than what we have now!

M103 and m105 trailers

If your stuff looses prime after sitting, you have a delivery issue like an overflow valve leaking down. The engine SHOULD be able to sit years and light right off. Where are you in LA?

If it's a Bosch P pump, no need to bleed the injectors they will bleed themselves. If it is a P pump. you need to have a MINIMUM of 12 psi to light it. Check the return line at the pump/overflow valve. If there is any flow at cranking speed, the valve is junk. be EASY on the starting fluid, the...

No. All the tuning is done inside the pump. The spring on the outside is just a return spring.

Only if the liner is in tact and the crap flying around didn't mess up the lower receiver, only way to tell is to take it apart. If it is OK, you'll need to find used parts and slap a set of new rings on the piston.

Early ones had a compression release, the blocks on the NHC have the hole for it but they are not installed. Only way to get anything into the cylinders is to remove the injectors and put the penetrant through the injector hole.I can honestly say, I have never seen a stuck piston from rust. Seen...

:popcorn: Here we go again!

Cut the oil filter open to see if there is metal in it. If not, it's probably just hydraulic locked. You can pull the valve covers, screw an intake or exhaust valve down to open the valves on each cylinder...only do it about 1 to 1 1/2 turns...and try to bar it over.

It's there. Go to "forum" button on top tool bar, scroll down to the "general" box and it's about 1/2 way down. I personally am not finding this too user friendly. :-(YMMV