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I have a head gasket from m-35tom and a complete headgasket kit from Memphis equipment. Yes, $$, but when you think of the alternative - time spent cutting your own (where you can), sourcing the one or two you can't McGyver, and using RTV for the others....I think it is the price to pay, given...
After a slight battle with a single exhaust manifold nut, http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?142862-4-cylinder-lower-nut-exhaust-manifold-!!!! , the heads are finally off and went to the machine shop today, together with the flywheel.
The multifuel 5ton flywheel is the same as the...
I am about to do that, too. I know that you can just screw a couple of self tapping screws right into the old seal and pull it out with pliers on the screws (no need to even remove the carrier). With the screws out, the carrier should come out with gentle prying.
Well, today's progress was six hours for 11 out of 12 exhaust manifold nuts and all intake hardware, flame heater removal and assorted other items.
I expected the exhaust nuts to pt up a fight, so I sprayed the suckers for a week and today heated the nuts up as hot as I could get them with a...
Take the shutoff cover off again and check the lever. It needs to sit in the 7 o clock position with the shutoff released. Move the lever by hand and see if it moes freely - if not, loosen the two screws that hold the bracket a little. They should not be too tight. If that is ok, and if you did...
As far as the cork seals go, you can clean them with a scotch brite pad (be gentle and do not tear them) and breathe some life into them with tru-oil (the stuff used on gun stocks). I heard that soaking them in olive oil over night works as well (have not tried that yet).
Congrats, first off. You are travelling on a Sunday, so quickly popping into a truck garage or NAPA for a part you need to keep on rolling could be an issue (think of your plan for that). I second the suggestion to take some time, check the members' map and see who would be close enough to lend...
I always admire it when someone can fabricate in metal like that! The rack looks good. I thought you were going to build the Canadian Forces spec MLVW rack, but yours is a luxury version!
Just recovering from ordering the rod bolts. Needed to search around; they ranged between $23.20 and $25 A PIECE. Makes the ARP head studs look cheap (I did not order these). I finally managed to source the 12 point rod bolts for $16.45 each.
My original plan was to get a takeout running engine...
Sure you can. Parts vendors and your friendly internet auction site carry "turbo kits", which is all the hardware you need, minus the turbo. You need to adjust the fuel after you did that.
Here is some more head gasket info: read up on tools required and new style vs old style gasket...
Yes, there are freeze plugs on that side, both on the heads and on the block (but these are quite a bit lower down). It really doesn't matter whether it is a freeze plug in the head or a head gasket - the head has to come off for either one. Sorry. Here is a fun thread to get you in the mood...
I'll tell you right now, before a flame war starts, that this has come up several times and is not considered to be a good or safe idea. There are convincing mechanical reasons why the right/left threads need to be there. Changing all to right hand thread drastically increases the chance of...
The flat plastic washer from the plumbing isle, intended to fit sink traps etc. is a perfect fit. Bring your cap; I think it is the 1 1/4 inch diameter.
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