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The bench seat I took out of mine had two sets of lap belts.

I searched and see that the bolts are available from tractor supply specialists such as Maibach and they are the 12-point style. Which part # am I looking for? Or is it just for the 2-135 Oliver/White engine? I hoped to avoid a full "refresh" on this engine, but...darn....heads will be off...

Looked at the engine again and ordered the HG kit from Memphis. What's one more project at this stage... :-)

Preparing to get an LDS ready for the swap - progress report and questions I have an ailing LDT in my truck that I suspect of having two "holy" pistons and will be swapped out for a later rebuild project. I just brought home a takeout LDS-465-1A, overhauled by Continental. I am ready to...

Here is some info on the switch: http://olive-drab.com/od_mseries_lightswitch.php The top lever should be in "service drive" for normal operations, giving you headlights, taillights, turn signals and stop lights. The flasher unit (engine compartment, driver side fender) is known to not like a...

Yes, you describe the function of the fuel shut off cable "plunger" accurately! Its only job is to pull the lever towards the firewall when you pull the shutoff inside the cab. The throttle return spring : Maybe this helps...

M35A2 REAR MAIN SEAL AND SPEEDYSLEEVE: SKF manufacturer "Chicago Rawhide" CR brand. there are 3 part numbers that come up in the cross reference. They are 49927, this one is the one with the longer lasting flouroelastomer "Viton" seal ( more expensive too). The other two are both "Nitrile" seals...

"Or should I just break down and replace all the IP seals and bypass the FDC? Probably will make me sleep the best at night. I don’t have a pryometer to adjust the IP fuel flow, so I would prefer to not bypass the FDC just yet, and getting the boost pump out seems to be an ordeal." You are...

Just to be clear: When you open the cover and look at the lever, it sits in the 6 or 7 o'clock position, and the truck starts. When you operate the lever by hand, it has some resistance, moves towards the fire wall, to about the 4 or 5 o'clock position, the engine stops and the lever returns to...

Flame heater is cool technology and, hey, a foot long flame in the intake is awesome. Ether start has a bottle, a solenoid/metering valve and a switch. Much less to go wrong.

How much does the bare frame weigh? 1500 lbs?

I second the boost gauge and would not turn the fuel down, but rather drive it with the pyrometer. Yes, you saw the temps going up to 1200, but YOU are in charge - back off the fuel pedal slightly (dramatic effect on EGT) or downshift (higher rpm, less load and lower EGT). Personally, I would...

I was thinking, bad rings in the air compressor can let oil into the system. When the air switch vents, here comes the oil. Usually you would get oil spray from the air tank drains - so look for that.

I feel with you. Mine has been doing the same thing since I got it in 2009. I am quite certain that it is the head gasket slobbering at the front of the block and the fan blows the oil mist all over the place. Only happens under load and at 2k-plus rpm. I second testing after a good wash, with...

I replaced mine with a NAPA commercial truck switch also...$16. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?130915-Air-stop-light-switch-issue&highlight=

"5. Are shelf life issues common on NOS parts? Would I be able to depend on the rubber goods in an NOS kit of unknown age?" I recommend to get the brake hose kit that a member on this site offers. I did mine before these were available and have been suspiciously eyeing my Asian rubber brake...

Wow, whatadeuce, talk about "picking up where you left off " - almost 3 years ago! :p

Pulled exhaust off - straight pipe and muffler. No change (well, louder!). Did not pull J-pipe but peered inside and it is sooty but otherwise looks un-obstructed. I have a flapper on the stack, so what I needed to check was whether some muffler innards had come loose and blocked the exhaust. It...

Pulled hose coupler off the turbo. All vanes there, no in-out play, a tad lateral play (just feel-able) which I deem normal without oil pressure. Spins freely and smoothly. Unlikely to be a turbo issue. These are my fingerprints on the vanes! That means, heads need to come off and then a...

Red, that sucks. It is one thing doing an engine swap because you WANT to, a lot less fun is doing it because you have to. Time for an LDS?