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Discovered where the engine oil was going, the cooler fittings at the radiator were leaking. And that was due to a twisted o-ring. Thankfully I have Viton rings on hand. It only leaked when the SECM generator was running as the governor spins the engine at higher RPM than idle, I never saw...
Yep, my 4k PSI, 4 GPM pressure washer is powered by a 390 GX Honda. That is rated at 13 Hp, 24 cubic inches at 3600 RPM. At half that speed, the diesel should make easily 1/4 Hp per cubic inch, that is 35 Hp. Now a worn MEP 003a engine might only make 20 Hp.
The bigger issue would be the...
If the originals have been used with DOT5 brake fluid, they should be fine for rebuilding. The NAPA kits for overhauling them are cheap and easy to do. All you need is 30 seconds of honing, I've done dozens and nary a corroded one. The overhaul kits have better springs too, they are less...
The military rating is hot and high altitude. A 003a should produce 25+ HP at 1800 RPM, it is a 4 cylinder 140 cubic inch engine. If it were gasoline, it would be good for 40+ HP at 1800 RPM.
I'm getting real good at removing and replacing starters. Well, just this one. Sourced the correct pinion drive retainer parts that were MISSING on the original starter. Found a Delco shop and they GAVE me the parts, after striking out at the usual sources.
Well, with the commutator turned...
Got the proper Delco parts installed, meaning the starter was yet again removed, taken apart and put back together. I feel much better now knowing all is right. Truck starts much better too, I had noticed an overall degradation in starting quality, sometimes taking 3-4 seconds to catch...
The alternators are self-excited from residual magnetism in the rotor laminations. They sometimes need a kick of speed to go into regulation mode as the diode trio doesn't generate enough current for the field.
Set cold idle, be sure to check free movement of the injection pump throttle shaft, on 1031s with the governor installed, the block attached to the throttle shaft can impede full range of movement. Also, some 1031s had the cold idle advance solenoid and cold timing advance wired up incorrectly...
Also, could be the starter. The brushes wear, making for poor contact. Then when hot, the combined resistances of the brushes on the commutator and windings mean for low cranking speed.
Get the starter motor overhaul kit (listed in the wiki) and dust off the -34 to see how to replace brushes...
Got the starter fixed. Broken nose cone due to MISSING parts, namely 16 and 15 in the -34P. These keep the starter gear from going off the shaft, they were GONE. Meaning the starter gear was crashing out on the nose cone of the starter, eventually it broke. Causing starter run-on and much...
There are things which provoke war, then there are those that guarantee it. I prefer to live in a peaceful house, even if that requires slight warping of reality. Borrowing a starter off of T's is inviting world war. Even considering all the work+money I have spent on it.
It WORKS. The circlip was fashioned from 1/16" ER70S2 weld filler that was bent, cut and finished to diameter, then quenched to near spring temper ( at 0.35% carbon, it barely quenches to knife hard). The washer was fabbed from 1030 carbon steel.
Only needed utility power but could have used...
THANKS!!!! Root cause analysis is a missing retainer circlip holding the bendix gear and overrunning clutch onto the shaft. This caused the bendix gear to crash into the nose piece, overstressing it. It only took 100 psi of argon, a few kW-h of electricity and two 4043 filler rods to fix...
Got it cleaned, burrs removed from the bendix and nose shaft, commutator turned and the nose piece welded this morning. Bench tested and it looks fine, at 12 volts. I checked field windings for short to ground, all is good there. Also no rotor shorts with proper continuity.
I will order a...
Yes, it happened. That is why I had the starter hang-on. This time, it caused a little overheating of the starter, took me 45 seconds to pull batteries. But the heat was from friction, not resistance so the windings in the field and rotor look fine. Just a bit of steel wear, not an issue...
The transducer converts frequency into current, 60 Hz should be 100 microamperes. Of course you have to check both transducer and meter. But in reality, all you need to have is the meter reading 60 Hz. What I do is pull both, then rig up a test using utility power on the input to the...
Caps are cheap. Yes, they can stick. I would not recommend running without a thermostat because of excessive flow that can cause turbulence and uneven cooling in the heads. Thermostats are proportional devices, they have a range of flow to keep coolant at a certain temperature. They can...
I've got a pair of rebuild kits on order because mine are a tad weak, the most they will put out while still keeping battery voltage above 12.8 is 30 amps. Under $40 per kit is a lot of saved cash.
The kits contain both bearings, the main rectifier bridge, the field diode trio, brush set and...
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